Here are some of the latest photos. We have everything from just behind the front seats to the rear stripped down to the sealer. Our first step in the rebuild is to replace the whole power train. Going to start with a crate 350 Chevy 4 bolt large block motor. We're going to just rebuild and step the transmission up for better and more efficient towing power. Over the next 6 weeks we should see significant progress on the infrastructure. I love how this thing is built. This is going to be fun.

Office area


Captains area


Bath and Kitchen

Wow...what a job. Very similar to what I'm doing to my 19 footer. What made you decide to go with a new motor? I'm considering it myself but I'm not so sure my motor is done. It hadn't run for any appreciable time for many years. After replacing the carb, new electronic distributor, spark plugs, wires etc., I ran it for about 500 miles. I went through a quart in the first 100 miles, put in a quart of Rislone and now oil consumption has dropped to almost zero. The only thing bothering me is a noisy valve lifter. Love the pics!

I decided to just alleviate any worries in the future. Once I build this, the last thing I want to have happen is an old greasy engine needing repairs. Now that it is stripped, I am going to just start from scratch and give myself a new vehicle. I paid 700 for this so I have some leeway in what I put into it. I know by putting 15k into it, it is still only going to get 5k back, but I plan on renting it out for business purposes, so I want it to be as close to 100% reliable as possible. A crate 350 large block can be had for 1200. And that was from NAPA. I haven't even shopped for one yet. It gets more exciting everyday.

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The only thing bothering me is a noisy valve lifter.

At the risk of raised eyebrows and scorn from some, I'd suggest a dose of Marvel Mystery Oil...sticky old Lycoming & Continental aircraft engines love the stuff
(although not FAA approved

While I don't use it in the crankcase (Don't want break any crud loose after 33 years),
I do routinely use it in the upper end via an inverse-proportion injector (meters MMO at a greater rate during low vacuum) A few years ago I had a head off for a gasket problem, and I was impressed with how clean everything was after 97k miles....likewise, my Q-jet has remained free of varnish build-up.....

MMO, like religion, requires an element of blind faith.....I'm a convert......Google is full of folks who swear by or at MMO.....might worth looking into....

A Chevy 350 is a Small Block engine. The large block is the 427 - 454 and up. These engines are basically bullet proof and can be easily rebuilt to new including sodium filled valves, better torque performance cams, roller rocker arms and Edelbrock aluminum heads. The result would be more torque, higher hp and better fuel economy. You can even add throttle body injection and get more reliability under all conditions. Probably cost about the same as the vanilla crate motor.

$1200 for a crate motor? That's pretty cheap. I think I would go with a complete rebuild. Pull the motor, do the bottom end (crank, cam, bearings, etc.) and the top end (grind the head, new valves, lifters, pushrods, etc.)
By the way, how do you get the motor out of a 19' Barth?

Thanks for the information Tom K. Honestly I am not involved in the mechanics. I was trying to recite what I discussed with the guy that will be working on the engine and drive train. I have a guy that used to be a crew chief on a drag racing team and in exchange for free tickets to NHRA events he will be doing the work for cheap. Fair trade I think and he's someone I can trust to do the work. Neither of us has ever rebuilt a motor home so I'll be taking everyone's suggestions to them so we can try to make some informed decisions from your ideas. Thanks everyone for the input. As far as removing the engine while in the Barth a friend of mine owns a crane and his thought was we might lift the body off the frame and be able to address all the issues from that vantage point. Should I be confident in this idea? Should I consider going to a larger block than the original 350? Again I appreciate all the input and I extend the offer to the Barth community that if the NHRA is in your town or location and you have an interest in seeing this feel free to contact me and I just may be able to provide you with a weekend pass and behind the scene tour. I look forward to your posts.

Check Bill H. way of engine replacement.Here If I ever have to replace mine this is the way I plan to go. The 454 is still running great, But I'm doing some serious thinking about a 6.2/6.5 T.D. with O.D.

Doorman

I did the drivetrain replacement thingy - engine in '06, tranny in '10. My OEM engine was an early GM 6.5L TD, and it had the usual issues associated with GM shovelware.

I replaced it with a Peninsular Diesel 6.5L TD conversion based on the AMG block, uprated to 230HP (Stock: 190). ~$10,000 installed.

The 4L80E transmission was rebuilt to extra heavy duty standards (850 lb-ft torque vs. 450 stock) including a machined spline and brazed torque converter. $5,250 at Sun Coast Converters in Ft. Walton Beach, FL.

Was in worth it? You betcha. I knew the engine was basically crap, and expected to replace it. Same with the tranny (AAMCo rebuild).

With the stock engine and tranny, I got ~9.2 mpg. With the new drivetrain, 12.5+. The power and responsiveness are also noticeable.

The 6.5L TD should be a drop-in with the 454/7.4L, but a diesel TC would be required, as would a larger radiator. A 4L80E would fit with an aftermarket controller. Replacing a 350/5.7L would require major work, as it's significantly heavier than the gasser.

A pyrometer, boost gauge, and tranny temp gauge are strongly recommended.

If you do get the body off why not do a 383 stroker conversion? This will give you a lot more available torque and not change the footprint. While at it have the tranny checked or upgrade to one with lockup TC to put behind the engine.

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Originally posted by ccctimtation:
If you do get the body off why not do a 383 stroker conversion? This will give you a lot more available torque and not change the footprint. While at it have the tranny checked or upgrade to one with lockup TC to put behind the engine.

+1 on that. I really like 383s. I would not do a 350 rebuild without putting in a 383 crank, with matching rods and pistons. GM sells an HT383 crate engine that would be great for an RV. It could be copied by a rebuilder, as well. Long strokes haul good. Super Chevy magazine did a series they called Danger Mouse that used a 383 crank. Lots of good info there.