I am thinking of modifying my ignition/start switch to a ignition on/push button start switch instead of the start/release GM type I have now. I think these GM switches are overworked as it is and maybe with the addition of a push button it might help.

Has anyone ever attempted this modification?

Don

I'm think of doing this myself...I have found several on Amazon but all still require the orginal to be in place somewhere. Interested to see what others think or have found. I'm also curious if anyone has or knows of a way to replace the pullout knobs for the heater, wipers, etc can be replaced with buttons for switches.

The truck/RV steering column switches are quite reliable, and easily replaced. IMHO, altering the current circuit is overkill, and probably not worth the effort.

My switch is iffy at best. It was real loose and now after a long run the engine does not shut off on the first try. (This is a long standing problem that the PO also experienced.) If I turn the ignition back on then off it will shut off.

I know this probably is not the ignition switch and must be a fuel shut-off solenoid that sticks when hot but I can't figure out why it is O.K. 90% of the time then sticks again.

I have a heavy-duty push button from a 10 cylinder stand-by generator set that would work well if I modify the circuit.

Rusty, you are probably right in that it is not worth the effort. I am going to replace the mounting faceplate to solve some corner crack issues and now would be the time to modify it with a new hole for the push button.

Don't over think this problem, It most likely IS the fuel solenoid. You system should be like mine. Works like this:

When you turn the key to run position the fuel solenoid is turned on but will not pull in. When you go to the start position, there is a relay in the back that sends power thru a second winding that will then be enough energy to force the solenoid to the run position.

Releasing the key from the start position after the engine starts will then reduce the current to the solenoid but the solenoid can stay in the run position as the plunger of the solenoid once fully pulled in does not require much energy to keep it energized. This keeps the power to the solenoid much lower during running so it will not over heat for continous duty

There is probably some junk or dirt or corrosion inside the solenoid that is causing it to stick. It may be moving a tiny bit when you first turn it off and then with repeated on/off cycles of the key switch it loosens up and will then drop out. heat may be the other factor causing it to stick.

HTH

ED,

Thanks for the reply.

I also think that it is sticking because of the heat since it only happens after long runs and not after short runs.

When I turn the key on to free it up the inrush probably shocks the solenoid and unsticks it. (It only takes one on/off cycle of the switch to kill the engine.)

Don, KM5XK