This is a long distance poll for a problem on my brother's new 1984 Regency, Detroit 8.2, Kohler 7.5 gas generator. He can't get spark to the generator and is trying to get at it. He tells me he can't see any tray, rails or way to slide it out the front. The hydraulic leveler pump and reservoir are mounted just inside the grill door so he thinks they unit does not slide out. There is a dog house between the driver and passenger that he has opened to get at the points and rotor cap but he can't get far enough into the area to reinstall and set the points. The coach is 35 feet in length with a mid door. Anyone with a similar unit or experience please tell me how to advise him. I'd go over to help but he is 1600 miles away.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom K:
This is a long distance poll for a problem on my brother's new 1984 Regency, Detroit 8.2, Kohler 7.5 gas generator. He can't get spark to the generator and is trying to get at it. He tells me he can't see any tray, rails or way to slide it out the front. The hydraulic leveler pump and reservoir are mounted just inside the grill door so he thinks they unit does not slide out. There is a dog house between the driver and passenger that he has opened to get at the points and rotor cap but he can't get far enough into the area to reinstall and set the points. The coach is 35 feet in length with a mid door. Anyone with a similar unit or experience please tell me how to advise him. I'd go over to help but he is 1600 miles away.

Yep, the generator does not slide out.
What do you mean by “spark to the generator” – I don’t quite follow that.

Wait, he has a gas generator in a diesel rig? That’s odd, my 85 Regency with the DD 8.2 has a Diesel generator…was the Kohler a retro fit?


It’s a pain to work on – you either lie on the floor with the hatch open or crawl underneath the rig and sit next to the generator.

His books say it was built with the 7.5 gas Kohler. It has a 40 gal separate fuel tank for it. He has ried lying on the floor and trying to fit next to the generator on the outside. Neither one gets him close to the unit. Any idea how you would remove it for overhaul? And, do you know of any kill switches that would prevent starting it? Fuses? Also he finds the front rotors are cracked - do you have a source for these?(I am assuming they are the same as yours)

Mine is very similar and also has the seperate 40 gal tank for the genset but is a diesel... Is his on the MCC chassis? If so he needs to contack MCR (Motor Coach Restorations) and speak with Christopher about the rotors.... I dont have/know the number offhand but it is easy to find on this site using the "Search" feature... I've worked on my genst "through" the doghouse but never really looked at it to see about removal....

quote:

Originally posted by Tom K:
Also he finds the front rotors are cracked - do you have a source for these?

http://www.motorcoachrestoration.com/

At the bottom of the data tag project, I have this image available.



Read ALL of the posts by Leslie Hoagland. Sadly, Leslie passed away but his son Christopher is running things now.

Posts by Leslie Try to read each from the beginning of the thread. Reading only a snippet might not convey what it is I hope you gleam from the tenor of these posts.

"Brakes and suspension parts are VERY IMPORTANT items to check on the MCC Chassis."

I have the same generator in my 82-35. There is a remote stop attached to the side of my generator and it has a fuse in in that if blown will not let it start. Tough to get at as everything else is on it.
Mine is having tha same problem and I think it esier to drop the generator tray out the bottom.
4 bolts some wire disconnects, muffler and fuel line.

My front jacks will get me almost high enough but I need another 6" to slide it out the front.

I think my problem is in the mag (points). Havn't changed them in 10 years. (if it aint broke don't fix it.) This is the first time it has failed on me.

Will post my progress.

ED.

I have the 6.5 KVA Kohler with 2000 hours and have only had three problems any of which could be a problem only two are spark related.
There is a reset button on the control box, probably opposite the motor. It pops when the starter runs too long without starting the motor. Generally this is due to fuel flow problems. My fuel pump has a manual lever to fill the carb and if not used the starter often doesn't prime the carb before dropping the reset.
The other problem I have is mine has the automatic start and requires a 60+ watt load to start.
Other that those items the only thing is smooth operation and that was resolved by screwing the idle control down and resetting it. The passages in the carb are so small that the occasional goober will mess things up. Bill might have a better technical term than goober but I bet the meaning was conveyed. Good luck