We went on a short trip over the weekend and had no hot water. The hot water heater is a Atwood 6 gallon Electric/Gas with direct ignition. The switch over the door lights up when turned on. I don't even know enough to know how to troubleshoot.

Can somebody help?

Thanks,
Nick

Nick,

I don't have the answer you want, but for starters, there's pretty good trouble-shooting guides at the mfgr's site.......Go to:

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/Service/Trouble/default.cfm

"Electric/Gas with direct ignition"
Normally the "Electric" part only works when 120v AC is present; when shore power is being used and -on some- when the generator is putting out 120v (maybe not yours). Does it work when you're plugged in to shore? Check the 120v AC breaker box to be sure the (for water heater only) breaker isn't tripped. Most electric/gas heaters have a switch -probably toggle, with a red "on" light- to activate the electric element. Often the "panel" switch activates gas mode only.
Finally: I'm aware of one SOB on which the "electric 120V" element only worked on 50amp; not thirty amp.

When it is in "gas" mode, it requires 12v electricity to fire the gas heater. Again, check the fuses to ensure it has juice to the heater. How long ago did it last work?

To add to what Gunner outlined, for the over-door switch to work, the propane has to be turned on at the tank and at the sniffer. To get best results, the system should be bled of air by getting one of the stove burners to light. The electronic ignition will only light if gas is there and the thermistor detects a flame; otherwise it shuts down for a period.

If the above doesn't work and you can't hear the ignitor "snapping", there are two button thermostats on the tank outside in the access. One is actually the thermostat, and the other is an overtemp fuse; if the thermostat fails and the HW heater gets too hot, the overtemp fuse's element melts. This can be checked for continuity; if bad, replacement is the only option.

As Gunner mentioned, the only time the elctric element works is on 120VAC. There's a thermo-breaker on somewhere on the HW tank (inside the coach); if this has tripped, push the red button to reset.

If the thermostat failed and overheated the water, the 120VAC thermo-breaker will have tripped and the overtemp fuse will be open. IIRC, it's about $25 for a set of thermostat and overtemp fuse, and they're easy to install.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
To add to what Gunner outlined, for the over-door switch to work, the propane has to be turned on at the tank and at the sniffer.

I believe the light is to tell you it's in 120volt mode.

That switch should always be OFF when you have NO WATER in the HOT WATER HEATER. It is for 120volt ONLY.

To many times an RV owner will leave the 120volt switch on and it will burn out the electric heater element.

Keep that 120volt switch off until you have...
1) run water thru the system or fill the tank.
2) the switch for the water pump is engaged or you have city hookup.
3) you have bled the air out of all faucet, hot and cold.
~ Now is when you can turn that switch on.
Note: never turn off the water pump switch or disconnect from the city psi unless you turn off the 120volt switch first.

Even if you have the 120volt heater element burned out - it will still work on propane. The steps outlined above should also be followed before you start up the propane part of the Hot Water Heater. Substitute the 120 for propane.

While I only have 120volts on my Barth, I have changed these out in the past for others and I have seen failure in the 120Volt side because of this. The 120Volt heater element is cheap to change... Y.M.M.V.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
To add to what Gunner outlined, for the over-door switch to work, the propane has to be turned on at the tank and at the sniffer.

I believe the light is to tell you it's in 120volt mode.

Regencies may be wired differently, but on mine, the switch for 120VAC electric is inside the door under the sink. The light on the above-door panel flashes red when the ignitor is trying to get a start, and turns green when successful ignition has occurred.

Besides, I don't think Code would allow 12VDC and 120VAC circuits both in the control panel.

But Bill N Y is absolutely right - none of the heater facilities should be energized unless the tank is full, and has been bled of air.