Fresh of my (moderately) successful first foray into riveting (see my other thread), I thought I'd get crazy and start to tackle my storage door frames, which are almost all in bad shape:





A few questions:

1. I tried to use my 3/8 - 1/2 inch grip range rivets, and they didn't hold. Is it simply a matter of getting a smaller grip range? Anyone else replace the rivets on the door frames? If yes, what was the grip range?

2. I was really surprised at how much sealant was behind the frames. Completely coated. Necessary?

3. With this much displacement should I take the entire frame off? If I do, what else is going to fall off? Do I buy the exotic sounding but fairly inexpensive Cleco tool and fasteners (Cleco set on Amazon)?

Anybody want to chime in?

If you remove the frames you can get all the hardened sealer out of there.
Reseal and re-rivet.

Cleco's not needed. Holes are already in place and aligned.

Thanks L8Steve,

More questions however.

1. Can I use Dicor lap sealant in place of the old sealant, or would another product be recommended?

2. If I have the whole frame off, and only two hands, don't I need something like the Clecos to hold the frame in place while I rivet? Especially if the frames is slathered with new sealant?

3. Does anyone have a grip range for the compartment door frames?

Thanks!!

Cleco's will hold frames in place if you are on your own.
As far as grip range you have to clamp frames then measure.

Been there, done that! Remove entire frame, first by removing the door and hinge. Drill heads off all rivets. Once removed you will see the skin attaches to a 1" square steel tube that is the compartment frame. The compartment is riveted to that and will remain in place, though you might discover more broken rivets. Gently separate the skin from the tube and you will find deteriorated gray tape. Scrape this out and off all around. Here you have some choices - insert another tape barrier or get some eternabond double stick tape. Either will be difficult as you have to separate the skin from the steel. Assuming you cut and insert the eternabond, use Cleco's around all the edges of the door to align and squeeze the now three layers together. Insert Hanson Closed End rivets, p/n PAAD608AH (see Hanson Website). These are aluminum with aluminum mandrels sufficient for the job. They have a tensile strength of 310 pounds each so they will not fail on something as benign as a door frame. You don't need any bedding material between the layers, but you can add a very thin edge bead when finished. Unless you just have to have the rivets match the paint you don't need to repaint the frame. You can use their aluminum countersunk closed end rivets with a steel mandrel for the hinge to get added strength (up to 600 ponds of tensile strength). Again use the Cleco's for alignment and sandwiching and countersink the hinge for a smooth finish when the hinge is closed. Do one at a time so there is no movement of skin or compartments. For the compartment walls you can use eternabond tape and shorter rivets because there are only two layers of material.

Thank you Tom! Another step one might like to add is to slice around the door frame with a utility knife. Cutting the paint around the door frame will reduce the paint from chipping larger chunks of paint off of the aluminum skin.

The original sealer is still available in the above post. It comes from the RV capitol of the world, Elkhart, Indiana. Customers can purchase it on eBay or call the supplier in Elkhart directly.

BUY RV stuff HERE

Tom, that is just super! Thanks for taking the time to put that all down.

The Hanson PAAD608AH rivets are the ones I have, and I used a bunch on the front aluminum skin and engine access door. For some reason they wouldn't bite on the storage door frame that I tried them on. I got a PM from another Barther saying that it might be because the rivets aren't hitting the tubing correctly. I'll know once I get them apart.

Kevin, great tip, 'cause for sure I'd mess up the paint.

The Barth is in the shop getting all new plumbing (another tale to tell). Should be back in a week. If we have good weather, I'll get started, one compartment at a time.

Quinn