I recently replaced the 12 VDC relay that separates the "switched" terminals from the "live" terminals in the DC compartment in front of the LF wheel on our 1993 Breakaway. I did this as a precaution since I had to jump the relay twice recently in order to get the coach running. It is intermittent but relays are cheap and I decided to replace it. (It probably is the ignition switch that is causing the problem.)

Anyway, the two bolts that hold this relay to the sub-pan have two nuts fitted on the back which make the relay tough to replace. If the bolts actually do come out the nuts fall down and if the whole thing just spins removal is impossible.

I found that someone earlier had cut about a 3/4" wide opening behind the panel from the inside in order to access the nuts. Then it was duct taped over to seal it. I bought an electrical 4" square box cover and fitted it over the opening and secured it with self-tapping screws. A little RTV will seal it so water can't get into the compartment.

The next time I replace this guy I am going to take the time to install some nut-certs in the sub-pan that will stay fixed in place and make the entire removal easier. These clever little devices expand to fit a hole and are sized for whatever size screw you are going to use. They come in kits which include the installation tool, etc.

I cannot imagine what the original fitter of this relay was thinking when he installed it with blind nuts behind a panel with no access available. Usually, at the minimum, the panel would be drilled and tapped to accept the holding screws which would allow removal.

I used to wonder how they installed the instruments, wiring harness and controls in the airplane panel. Then I found out they did all of it without the windshield or the top of the cowling installed. Woe be to the fool who wants to do it later!

When we replaced the windshield we put "riv-nuts" in the cowl. The original was riveted, we had to drill them all out.

As Don suggests, they are crimped into place and allow easy use of threaded fasteners. Highly recommended.

I found that plastic wall anchors also work well in sheet metal; I installed 5 boundary/clearance lights (formerly riveted) with them.