When I run the air conditioner plus microwave no problem. If I run furnace it will start up ok but if a light or anything else is turned on the lights seem to dim and will sometimes throw a breaker.New batteries ,all wires in batt. tray in good shape or replaced last month, all connections cleaned. Same problem before batt replaced. ???

WHich breaker trips? The main? Or is it the one for the furnace? You could try replacing the breaker that trips. Breakers sometimes get unpredictable with age.

You didn't say whether the breaker was 120VAC or 12VDC, but it sounds like the latter.

Does this happen when dry camping or when plugged in?

Does the furnace fan motor sound like it's slowing down when the light is turned on?

When you say "all connections cleaned", did you crawl under the coach and clean all the chassis grounds? (On mine there are about 6 different points.)

Rusty; 1.-12 volt do not pop,2.- on shore power, 3.-slows down or pops.Will have to go under and check grounds. Thanks.

Agree with Rusty on the grounds. Time spent improving grounds always pays off, now or later. Electrical systems are emotional, and cleaning grounds is telling them you love them.

Voltmeter readings would also tell us something.

I bet Rusty has the cleanest grounds in the whole US. Thanks for making me do it.It is surprising how many things work after you do that simple job.It takes no brains to clean grounds.
lenny

Would my Regal have several grounds? I only know of one.
Tere

You probably have several. The main ones are from the battery to the frame, from the engine to the frame and from the genset to the frame. My preference is to run engine and genset grounds directly from a starter mounting bolt to the frame. The starter uses the most current, so a direct ground is most helpful there.

The skin is also a ground for clearance lights, etc.

On mine, grounds seem to be located by whim or fancy, with no apparent pattern. I would guess that it all depends on the guy doing the wiring. Since the chassis, coach frame and coach skin are such massive conductors, location is not always critical. Sadly, some of my grounds are pop-riveted to the skin, and they can corrode.

A quick and dirty way to check a ground is to have a looooooong wire with a battery clip at one end and a push pin or T pin at the other end. Connect the clip to the negative terminal of the battery, and poke the negative conductor of the light whose ground you are testing. If it gets brighter, you have a poor ground. This is best done at night so subtle differences in brightness can be detected.