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Fuel Problem
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posted
I have a 1983 Barth Regency Deisel Pusher, runs on a 250 hp Cummings 8.2.
A partner of mine ran it out of fuel and haven't been able to get it started.

I have about 40 gal. of fuel in her and made sure there was fuel getting up to and past the fuel filter but I'm stuck at this point, I would like to get her back on the road again I would be greatful for any input on this matter.

Thanks, Brad
 
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On the back inside of the 8.3L injector pump there is a bleed screw/nut - back off the nut where it goes into the rubber return line and pump the primer handle until fuel without bubbles runs out of it - tighten up and crank over for 10 seconds - if it doesn't fire up crack the injector line loose at injector one at the head and crank over for 5 seconds - repeat for number two injector - then 3 etc until it runs.

Bill N.Y.
 
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Say Bill, as long as we're on the subject,what would be the procedure if a 5.9 Cummins were to run out of fuel?


Larry and Heidi from CA
 
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quote:
Originally posted by hilarlee:
...what would be the procedure if a 5.9 Cummins were to run out of fuel?
The same - the 5.9L and 8.3L pumps are injection style pumps - you need to bleed the air out of the system up to and including inside of the fuel injector pump. Inside of the injector pump it's very easy to compress air but harder to compress a liquid. A little bit of air will cause you to stay air locked.

There are bleed screws in the fuel filter housing and the injector pump housings - Seeing that you need to bleed the air out of the complete system I just cut to the chase and bleed it out at the injector pump when a unit is run out of fuel.

If your changing out a filter only and you want to bleed the air out of the top of the housing then just crack the bleeder at the fuel filter housing only and use the primer pump. Keep in mind that your only going to do this on the pressure side of the fuel system - if you crack the line loose at the filter housing and it's on the suction side then your going to cause more problems (sucking in air) once you start pumping the hand primer pump.

My advice when changing filters is to make sure your new filters are full of fuel and to run the unit at a raised idle for about 2 minutes before you shut it off.

Bill N.Y.
 
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My concern with this post is what's been left loose. More often then not I'll show up on a job site after someone's been messing around without luck.

A quick way to find a suction side leak is to apply SLIGHT AIR PRESSURE to the fuel tank vent tube - no more then 10-15 lbs of air pressure to cause the tank to force the fuel down the line and into the air suction leak.

Too many times the filter has been cracked from a filter wrench or the o-ring got twisted or the air bleed vent is loose.

If you have access to shop air and a rubber tip blowgun then this might help you find the suction air leak (if any) and will allow you to bleed the injector pump housing without using the hand primer pump.

Be careful with how much air you use! You will blow a fuel tank apart if your not careful!


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Posts: 5924 | Location: Newburgh, New York | Member Since: 05-10-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Call the Cummins Engine Hotline. It is free, and those guys really know their stuff.


"You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood
 
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Hi Brad, Welcome to the site.
I don't know the answer to your question BUT these other guys DO! (or will)
My reason for responding is also to ask you to check your engine if you are aren't totally sure what you've got.
I've never heard of a 250 cummings (or an 8.2 cummins) in an 83 regency.
Common was the 205 or 230 HP 8.2 detroit fuel pincher.
This doesn't make me right as Barths were usually made to order and anything may have been installed or a repower may have taken place at some point in it's life.
procedure may be the same either way. i don't know.

Smiler


mike foster
83-35' regency 8.2 detroit towing 98 cherokee classic 4x4
 
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quote:
Originally posted by ironsides:
...check your engine if you are aren't totally sure what you've got.
I've never heard of ... an 8.2 cummins
Good point Mike. I was assuming he couldn't make out the last number or just remembered it wrong. It could be a Detroit too.

Is it a V8 engine? Is the exhaust manifold on both sides of the engine? Is it blue in color? Then it's an 8.2L Detroit Diesel. If it's this motor then it is very easy to reprime. The injectors are cam actuated and the pump is really nothing more then a transfer pump.

Fill the filters and crank it over. Do this 2-3 times and it'll run. There are no real bleeding issues with this motor. There one of the easiest motors to reprime.

The Cummins 8.3L and the 5.9L engines are straight 6 cylinder motors and the exhaust manifold is only on one side. These are tougher to reprime because of the style injector pump. A little bit of air stuck in the head of the injector pump will make it impossible to restart unless you purge the air out. The air pocket will keep compressing inside of the pump and will not allow any bleeding off.

By cracking the bleed plug at the rubber return line on the back inside of the injector pump this will force the air out. After you do that it should run. If it doesn't then the only thing left to do is crack each (one at a time) injector line at the head and crank it over for 5 seconds to purge the remainder of the air down the line.

If you keep cranking and don't do this you'll wind up replacing your starter motor too.

Bill N.Y.
 
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