The saga of my new barth starting continues.... First diagnosed as bad starting batteries in addition to a loose wire connection on ignition switch. Replaced batteries and corrected loose wire problem and all is good - started correctly each time for about a week. Left on a weekend trip Thursday and stopped for fuel at midnight - coach would not start. Same as before, turn key on, get buzz, turn key to start, get nothing - no clicks, buzz, chug or anything - dead. Got started by crossing wire on posts of solenoid and finished my drive. Found service in town, and 3 1/2 hours of diagnosis found nothing but suspected a bad wire between ignition and starter solenoid. Installed new wire and relay, and still nothing. Removed wire and relay, key started no problem. Parked in camp over weekend, started twice no problem and same on the way home Sunday. I would love to get this figured out. Is there another solenoid I am not aware? I am not very mechanical but sure could use some help. Otherwise, great trip, Barth ran good and all the cosmetic work being done has really helped us enjoy our new toy!

It would be a big help to know what your Barth is. If you add it to you signature (Yr, model, engine) it becomes a great reference. If not, remind us of what it is or it is very difficult to advise.

Have you talked to the P.O. about it? He may have had the problem and figured it out and thought it was fixed.

Sorry - tried to add Barth info to profile but it doesn't take/publish. It is a 32' Regency with 8.3 Cummins on Spartan Chasis. I have asked the previous owner and the only similar issue happened once at his service shop and never happened again. The resolution as I remember from conversation was they jiggled the key. Tried that and no help.

Step one, get your hand up under the dash and see if the connector is secure on the back of the ignition switch. If you can get a look at it, give a visual check for any corrosion, charring or loose wires.

If that checks out, I would get a competent technician who knows how to use a multi-meter to track down the issue. The big problem with these intermittent issues is getting them to fail when you have the ability to trace the problem.

Another approach is to start replacing things, the ignition switch and relay are a good place to begin.

My Barth had the headlight switch connector rattle off in the middle of the night on a dark road. I was relieved it was just the connector, but also a little dismayed at the crudeness of the wiring and looming going on behind that dash. It is not like a factory built automobile where the wires have lots of stress relief clamps, they were all just kind of hanging there prone to gravities effects.

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Originally posted by Moonbeam-Express:
If that checks out, I would get a competent technician who knows how to use a multi-meter to track down the issue. The big problem with these intermittent issues is getting them to fail when you have the ability to trace the problem.

Another approach is to start replacing things, the ignition switch and relay are a good place to begin.

The 1st way is more desirable - the second is just throwing money at it but eventually, if you don't run out of money 1st, it is effective. Seeing that you know how to start the coach in an emergency tells us that it isn't a starter issue.

Test lights, multi-meter and patience will go a long way in tracking this down. The key is finding it when it happens. Now is the perfect time to learn yourself how to diagnose because it might only happen when you're around.

internally corroded wire - solenoid - loose connections - key switch - kicker solenoid - corroded connection - bad grounds - low voltage under load... it could be anything.

Keep in mind, you might have 2 problems.

I want to expand upon this... It probably isn't going to be an easy problem to find.

I got my coach for next to nothing because they couldn't find an overheated connection inside of a bulkhead connector.



The "Entity" (NYS State, Taxpayer Subsidized, Agency) that owned my Barth paid thousands and never found this. Each time it went out it broke down - and, like clockwork, it was towed back.

It got so bad that no one wanted to drive it and it sat for years in a dealer parking lot racking up storage lot charges. When I was contacted, 2+ years later, they wanted to pay me to remove it because they were tired of paying those fees.

It takes a lot of patience to track down some of these electrical problems.

Could this be a solenoid problem on the starter motor? I know this is a diesel but on the front engine big blocks, when the solenoid got too hot, it failed and wouldn't start until the thing cooled down. Just a thought from someone who has shade tree mechanics as his heroes
Jim

I don't have a wiring print of your coach or any diesel knowledge, but here are some general thoughts.....

Since this is an intermittent problem, I would run a wire from the starter to the cockpit, and a hot wire from the battery to the cockpit.

The next time it won't start, touch the wires together. If it won't start then, the problem is the starter or its solenoid. Depending on your setup, terminals can be bridged there to see if it starts. If that doesn't so it, the starter is bad.

If the jumper wire starts it, then all the stuff the jumper bypasses need to be eliminated, one by one. Starter switch, for example. Sounds like the wire is not bad, so you could use the new wire as the jumper wire from the back to the front. Touch it to a known reliable hot wire.

Perhaps running a new wire from the battery to the start switch would be easy enough to do.

The intermittent problems are the most frustrating.

As an avionics tech, I used to say, "I can fix anything that's broke, but intermittent problems could take a very long time." Often, troubleshooting by substitution is the only way.

Chances are that this also runs through a front/rear start switch - this translates into an additional spot to check too.

Tech checked ignition wires and connections and reported all good. Other tech checked connections at battery terminals, starter and solenoid and all reported good. There is a solenoid on my unit located in the electrical bay under the drivers side compartment that they checked repeatedly and attempted to run new wire from ignition, to relay and back to starter which failed to solve the problem. I suspect this solution may take time to resolve. I greatly appreciate the input, but I am not in position to start replacing parts until I solve it, nor do I have the mind set for it. Searching for a reputable and knowledgeable RV shop in the Dallas area, or as close as possible, to help me diagnose and solve. I am wiling to travel if needed.

Another possibility is your neutral switch on the transmission may give a false indication that the vehicle is in gear. If it happens again you can try putting it in and out of gear to see if the situation changes.

Considering you don't want to throw money at it, I would recommend you line up a mobile RV tech, tell him what it does and that you will call him as soon as you can make it happen again. I don't know how a tech will fix a problem that he can't verify unless he stumbles upon an obviously defective part.

It was suggested by others that if the engine is not running, do not attempt changing gear from neutral to drive and back because it might cause the transmission to get stuck and further my problems.

Sure sounds like the problem many of us have encountered with the continuous duty solenoid in the electrical compartment under the drivers window. I carry a spare with me, NAPA part #ST85, all the time and I know others do too. It's one of those things every Barth (unique to diesel?) should have on board as a spare part. They are known to go bad and usually start with intermittent starting problems. Next will be the coach going dead while traveling down the road. This is what happened to me in Barth I, though I was able to get it started again by putting it in neutral and trying to start it again while rolling down the road. Then it would not start at all. There are posts on this site about them. I would definitely recommend changing that solenoid out first, as it is an inexpensive shot at relieving your problem. And this has corrected the same problem for quite a few others including me....

Can you confirm the part number? On-line, I find an ECH ST 85 (Echlin Ignition Parts) Continuous Duty Solenoid that looks like a match ($59.95). Does the starting "signal" pass through this solenoid before going back to the starter solenoid? Do you know what else is connected to this solenoid that could/would be affected that maybe I haven't discovered or encountered yet?