The 88 did not have a rear window, tried a corner mirror, not good. Ended up with a back-up camera. Nose has a rear window, however it is useless unless one goes back and looks out it, rear view mirror just does not give the driver a decent view from the front. Installed a back-up years ago.

I have always liked big windows and a wide view around the coach. One of the things I don't like about most trailers is their minimal windows.

When backed into a site looking at good scenery it is nice to be able to have a panoramic view out the back.

I am finding few RV window suppliers who have large one piece dual pane units.

to be continued

We would love a rear window for the panoramic view . In 2013 we had a Holiday Rambler Endeavor that had one , it was nice to lay in the bed and see the stars .

I have been sidetracked most of this summer with family moving issues.

Tie rod and shocks are not done yet, and the rear wall waits.
But wait! The window I ordered from Penninsula Glass has arrived.

The window is 18 x 48, double pane, slightly tinted. It appears to be very high quality, well made. Time to get back to coach work!

Looks good ole bean!!!

I cut out the bent sections of the horizontal ribs. Then I cut out sections of the vertical ribs to allow wooden sister frames to be installed. I lined up the wall sections and screwed the ribs to the wooden frames. The rear wall is now straight again.

I also cut out sections to allow a full width wooden bottom frame for the window. Then two 18 inch side frames and ready
for insulation and window installation.

to be continued:

I finished the wood butcher phase. All the frames are cut. I still need to screw them down completely. At least you can see where the window will be.

Next comes the insulation and inside sheeting. The window will go in easily now.

When I get to the external sheet metal I will start a separate thread.

see here: https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...123926797#1123926797

Check it out, bubba! Time for the first "viewing."
The window went right in. I will mount it permanently when I get the inside done.
Ready for insulation and interior laminate!

As I work on the Monarch, I see some of the changes Barth made over the years. The roof has trusses and is not flat. The side ribs are glued to the outer skin and only every other rib was riveted. I am impressed to see that the adhesive used is still holding. However, when I needed to remove rib sections I found that they are difficult to separate. Rather than get forceful, I decided to cut the rib along the skin and leave the bonded flange in place.

In the process of this job I found a new favorite tool. It originally came with a semicircular blade, useful for notching wood door trim when installing new flooring, etc.

For this job I bought a straight carbide blade. For cross cutting the ribs and for the window hole I used the sawszall. To cut ribs lengthwise along the outside skin I used this reciprocating saw. It did a great job of cutting through the corner of the rib, parallel to the skin. Still on my first blade.

quote:

Originally posted by Steve VW:
As I work on the Monarch, I see some of the changes Barth made over the years. The roof has trusses and is not flat. .

Another interesting note is not all Monarchs had the same trusses. Steve and Jim for sure have a much higher truss as they have ducting in the ceiling and floor. That has been very beneficial for Steve to do insulation. In the floor to run heater hoses. Also wires front to back. Mine is arched much less. I have had to work harder to make similar modifications.

Steve most adhesives are some form of plastic and a little heat, usually about 350F will loosen them. might be easier than cutting off the truss. You are probably already beyond this info.

Good point Duane. I considered heat but the inside of the skin and ribs are sprayed with some kind of black goo. It would probably run all over and even smoke at 350. I was not sure the outside paint would not discolor, either.

Now that I have the cutout section for the window, I will try some heat on that and see what happens.

Now that the corner cabinets are already out, I will pull the sheeting off the side walls and insulate those as well. That will complete the entire bedroom.

I got the belt trim back in place. Used new rivets and some stainless steel screws. It is tight and straight again.

Weather has cooled so I am back inside. I cut and installed pieces of foam for the back wall. A jigsaw puzzle to get all the pieces in behind the metal channels. I got all in but a few at the top corner. Next I will foam around all the edges.

I will have a scaffold soon to complete the outside top. Meanwhile I can install the interior paneling and start the sidewall insulation.

It will be done soon. Heading to Florida in about a month.

Another cool rainy day spent in the coach. The right side wall is open and ready for styrofoam. It looks like I may be able to pour some insulation into the bays below the window through holes in the horizontal belt rib.

Next the left side. When all the foam is done I will install a new luan panel on the rear wall, then reinstall the side panels. After that I can install Formica laminate on all three walls and reinstall cabinets.

to be continued:

I finished the pass side. Foam is installed and insulation poured in below the beltline. There were already several 7/8 inch holes in the horizontal ribs, apparently for wiring. I used those and drilled some more to fill each lower bay. Took a while with the small funnel. Ready to foam the cracks and around the edges.