Yuma extended forcast

05-09-2006, 02:51 PM

bill h

Another factor to consider is humidity. 80 degrees inside an RV in a humid climate is way different than 80 degrees in Yuma. When we had a permanent RV in the Colorado river valley, we were much more affected by humidity caused by irrigation conditions than by temperature.

I can say that our 27 foot fiver was pretty well cooled by one air conditioner there. Temps never got above 128 there. We were seldom inside during the heat of the day, as we were out on the river, but it was always cooler enough inside that it felt good. We had partial shade, so even if I remembered hard numbers, they wouldn't be of much use.

05-09-2006, 02:59 PM

Don in Niagara

Would it be just as hot in Glendale Az.?
Our eldest daughter Allison has just accepted a position at the Glendale campus, Arizona State University. She starts in August. She's moving from from a job in Rockefeller Centre and figures it can't be worse than NYCs 95 degree smog.
When she finds a place to live I'm hoping it comes with a 30 amp plug in for us in Jan/Feb/March!
Don

05-09-2006, 04:21 PM

olroy

Glendale is likely to be a mite cooler, but not much. Glendale is a suburb in the Phoenix megalopolis which has its own smog problems, though not likely anywhere near those of N.Y.C, or the L.A. basin.

Bill's right about the humidity. When Dave's melting in 80 degrees & 90% humidity in Eden Prairie, folks in Glendale in 95 degrees & 15% humidity will be just beginning to break into a sweat.

05-09-2006, 04:59 PM

Dave Bowers

Our 28 footer has only one air and a couple years ago we went down into Hannibal, MO.. 90+ deg and humidity both, huge thunder boomers, tornado's within 50 miles of our location. With two fans, air on full blast, we couldn't get it under 85 until 9:00 at night. Condensation pouring off the roof. Believe it or not, when we were driving, we were more comfortable with the windows open and the defrost fans blowing on our faces..And the radio full blast..a couple high schoolers.

05-09-2006, 05:33 PM

bill h

When we had smaller RVs with one AC, we would curtain off the bedroom to allow the AC to cool the rest of the coach adequately. With your mid bedroom and rear bath, you would end up with a pretty small area to cool, and would be OK. Obversely, you could curtain off the area forward of the AC and cool the rear part of the coach for sleeping.

05-09-2006, 05:59 PM

Dave Bowers

I have talked with Camping World, they have an $89 install special on Coleman airs. Now my present air is in the living room and I have one of those chinsie 12v fans in the bedroom area. They said that they would transfer the older Coleman to the center and put the new "big mama" AC in the living room. The only question is do I have 120V up there by the 12v fan. If I don't they will charge a bit more to hook it up. I asked them if they would take it directly to the fuse box which is under the bed right below the fan. They made me feel confident. Apparently they do it all the time.

05-09-2006, 08:04 PM

Rusty

There's a very good chance the 12 V wires are adequate (12 or 14 ga) and all that would need to be done is to connect them to 120 V. That may be for naught if they have to run a ground wire anyway.

Blackout curtains (which I use at star parties -heavy black cloth or naugahyde - I haven't yet made 'em for StaRV II) help quite a bit.

Rusty

MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines: Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons. Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!

"StaRV II"

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In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke

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05-09-2006, 08:34 PM

bill h

In many motor homes, the 12 volt wiring is also connected to ceiling lights and other things, and as such is not usable as 115 wiring. Also, the negative side can be tied to a chassis ground here and there, further complicating the stew. If CW indeed does run new 115 volt wires, pay a little extra for a little heavier wire. It will be worth it on hot weekends when everyone else is plugged in running their ACs. I had to use a Variac to keep my voltage safe.

I have had good results with Reflectix bubble foil insulation. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-locks/reflective-foil-insulation.htm

The foil reflects the radiation and the bubbles block some of the heat. Good on cold winter nights, too.

Also, you would be amazed at how a fresh coat of white roof paint can cool an RV down. I knew folks at the river who painted their roof every spring. My wife was inside while I was painting the roof, and she thought the sun had gone behind a cloud.

05-09-2006, 08:46 PM

Rusty

quote:
Originally posted by bill h:
In many motor homes, the 12 volt wiring is also connected to ceiling lights and other things, and as such is not usable as 115 wiring. Also, the negative side can be tied to a chassis ground here and there, further complicating the stew. If CW indeed does run new 115 volt wires, pay a little extra for a little heavier wire. It will be worth it on hot weekends when everyone else is plugged in running their ACs. I had to use a Variac to keep my voltage safe.

I have had good results with Reflectix bubble foil insulation. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-locks/reflective-foil-insulation.htm

The foil reflects the radiation and the bubbles block some of the heat. Good on cold winter nights, too.

Also, you would be amazed at how a fresh coat of white roof paint can cool an RV down. I knew folks at the river who painted their roof every spring. My wife was inside while I was painting the roof, and she thought the sun had gone behind a cloud.

Good point about the cascaded circuits - the center fan on mine is on an independent circuit..maybe it was an afterthought, since mine's the prototype.

I agree about the Reflectx; it works very well for cold and hot - I also use it for the windshield and driver's window.

Rusty