Our Cat requires 4-6 minutes start up time before it is ready to drive. Our unit is total air which even includes wipers, and throttle. I have heard that you can shorten the start up time by turning on the cruise control switch before starting and this will increase the idle speed thus making the air build up faster. Does anyone have info regarding this? I ran into a man at a camp site in Fl. that was upset with me because it took so long before I drove out of my spot. He of course hates diesels, and was having a bad day, but just wondered if any members can share info. Thanks. DASH


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I, too,do not appreciate parking next to a diesel owner who "must" get away by 6:00 am. I have wondered why a considerate person, before firing up the foul smelling, noisy diesel, would not pump his air system up with a small 12 v compressor and then move out promptly??

Gary & Edie
28' GAS

[This message has been edited by Grizzlygiant (edited February 16, 2004).]

Gary, thanks for the tip. I am a caring person, that's why I posted. Thanks I will look into such. Dale

Ever heard the sound of a 12v compressor?

If I have been sitting in a campground even over night, I am not going to even start my 454 up and take right off. I think 5-10 is more than understandable. My goodness, we aren't pulling our houses around with Honda Civics. Fact is, when I start up my Sienna here in Minnesota I let it run for a couple minutes before I take off.

Frankly, I don't want you all to think I am having a bad day, because I am not. However, even though I have met the finest folks on the road I have also met some of the biggest gripers.

Now if some guy starts his 400 HP Detroit at 7AM and doesn't take off till 9AM then the guy either went back into his coach and died or he has early onset Alzheimer's and he's inside his own coach swearing about his neighbor running his coach for so long.

Don't laugh, right after we bought our coach we were taking off from a CG and a guy came up to my window to comment on how awesome my Barth was, (you all know what I am talking about) and I had already started the coach. I could not hear what the guy was saying because there was a really loud grinding sound and was covering up our conversation and making me really nervous. Then Deb yells at me really loud from the kitchen. "Dave turn the radio off". Apparently the radio was between channels and the loud noise I was hearing was the radio static. I laughed for half and hour. Mostly from the relief that my coach wasn't dying in front of my eyes.

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[This message has been edited by davebowers (edited February 16, 2004).]

I do not believe that diving at an idle speed on level ground even in the coldest of start-ups does any damage to the engine. Actually sitting still after starting often leaves the choke in the partially closed position which will build up carbon on the valves & heads. I've never had an engine failure or even one which showed premature wear in 40 years of RVing.

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Gary & Edie
North Idaho
1988 28' P-30 454

Most modern diesel vehicles do have a fast idle switch or hand throttle which increases the idle speed up to 1000 to 1500 RPM. Tow trucks and wreckers with hydrolic accesory pumps set the emergency brake to hold truck in neutral and use the cruse control (in the on position) and hold the Set/Acc switch to hold the engine speed around 1300 RPM. Some cruse control systems have a speedometer switch which cuts off the system below 35 MPH. Tapping the brake petal or releasiing the emergency brake also turns off the cruse control. International recomends their engines not be idled for more than 20 min. due to possible engine deposits and damage.

I posted my comments in an effort to speed up the time it takes for the air to build. I can not even control the throttle until air is near 90 psi. If I get the throttle speed up to much at start the smoke will fill the campground. I pull into a site at night with lights off, and gen. off, and am just trying to like Rodney King said, "CAN'T WE GET ALONG" That's all folks. Hey, I have been insulted by experts, so as long as I use COMMON sense I can look in the mirror and LOVE what I see. Dale

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Dale, like previously commented above, using a small 12V compressor hot wired with a toggle switch and maybe also include a small air reservoir (if it doesn't all ready have one) with a pressure switch set at 100 PSIG and plumbed into your air system - would work. Once the pressure builts up you should be able to start right up.

I read a article yesterday in another online rag "RV Traveler" I think, that was about the letting your engine warm up before putting any load on it. The fellow or fellowette who wrote it said thats not true - even in cold weather. Like Grizzly said it can be more harmful creating deposits.

Dave I would like to see you add a few more Pics in your comments, along with the weather thing and others, maybe include a "Go Vikings" and "We love Kevin Garnett" icons. You just don't have enough stuff there!

There is a discussion on this very subject going on, on the RV Talk Board. It is much like the �top posting� vs. �bottom posting� and the gas vs. diesel discussions. Best way is to follow your best instincts, of course, after reading the owners manual. If you really want to be nice, wait till every one has left camp, then start, and while it�s warming up, you can go to the other campsites and clean up the mess they left.

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89 Barth Regal 32
Runs like a Deere
New Hampshire

Dale,

My coach is the same as yours. I suggest not worrying too much about letting it run for five or six minutes. Your engine should warm a bit and oil need to get pumped throughout the engine. Once the air pressure is up to capacity, hit the road. There are grumpy people everywhere.

Otherwise, you and Sharon could get behind the Barth and push it out onto the highway then start it. Anything to keep the neighbors happy.

Bill G.

I have thought about having the camp gound pull me in and out with a tractor, but steering and brakes ain't to easy to operate. Maybe I should just sell it. MAYBE Dale P.S. Jack it looks like you must have a bunch of play in your steering, and don't you get tired of shifting?

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[This message has been edited by DALE SMITH (edited February 16, 2004).]

DASH, i wonder if you might have a small leak in a line if your air is going down a lot just over night?
as far as gripers i have little to worry about. i'm so slow i never seem to pull out before ten anyway! i do set cruise at 1000 rmp for a couple minutes so i'm not taking off cold. these old detroits don't like it to cold or too hot.

MIDI (mike & diann)

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mike foster
83-35' regency 8.2 detroit towing 98 cherokee classic 4x4

Oh I do lose all air overnight, and I wonder how other total air Barth's do in that regard? What is a simple way to find leaks, and I would assume just working my way around all connections would be the method. Thanks everyone for your input. Dale

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Dale,
When looking for leaks in the system I found that the leak detector solution sold in the hardware store for finding gas leaks is easier to use and considerably more sensitive than the old fashoned soap suds.

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Gary & Edie
North Idaho
1988 28' P-30 454

Dale...on the heavy equipment I operate, when the mechanics are having a tough time finding an air leak, they use a liquid red dye in the air reservoir. It may take some time, if the leak is small, but eventually the dye makes itself seen.

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Mark & LeAnna
1973 Barth 25 L
402 cid
P30 Chassis