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Replacing clearance lights

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https://www.barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3631087061/m/8083949287

07-14-2014, 03:43 PM
chuckd
Replacing clearance lights
So easy task on my new to me C class, replace the burned out and broken clearance lights, ordered replacement Groth LED lights. Well Barth really likes rivets, so no screw mounted lights, but pop riveted, no problem, drill them out. New lights have same hole location all is good except: after taking off the red plastic to get at the mounting holes, big issue ( at least for meSmiler. The LEDs are mounted on a raised platform, that is flush with the side of the mounting holes, mounting holes are in the base. No way on heck to get a fastener with a head on it in the hole!
And the former pop riveted holes need about a 14 screw which is to large a diameter for the holes in the base of the light.

So any thoughts? I have already cursed the easy job lets get it done Gods.

Chuckd
Barth Class C
07-14-2014, 05:35 PM
Doorman
I have a tool to install these 8-32 inserts Don't have any inserts.Will loan you tool if that helps.

This is the tool I have. 8-32 rivnut tool


1986 31' Regal -1976 Class C
454/T400 P30 -350/T400 G30
twin cntr beds - 21' rear bath
07-14-2014, 06:13 PM
Rusty
I had the same issue, and used small plastic screw anchors and #6x1 sheetmetal screws. I cut the side webs off and split the anchor so that the screw would be less likely to turn the anchor. I had one spin, but holding it with a small utility knife allowed the screw to get seated.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

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In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
07-14-2014, 07:48 PM
Tom and Julie
I advise not to use a cheap tool for a quality result. So here is what we use and it is used many times as rivets on the Barth pop or corrode out. http://www.clipsandfasteners.c...ool_Kit_p/a11806.htm
It is easy and permanent because we use aluminum nutserts.


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
07-14-2014, 10:20 PM
Doorman
quote:
Originally posted by Tom and Julie:
I advise not to use a cheap tool for a quality result.


Tom, The tool I linked to may not look like much, but is a quality tool made by Scovill for the aerospace ind. I have installed hundreds of 1/4-20 rivnuts over the years with same type tool. 35+ years old and works like new. Have used pull type over the years too. Pull type faster. Screw type more control over pressure and more pulling power. The pull type will get into deeper and up closer to corners. Either one will work fine for this application.


1986 31' Regal -1976 Class C
454/T400 P30 -350/T400 G30
twin cntr beds - 21' rear bath
07-15-2014, 08:21 AM
Tom and Julie
It is also important that the rivet nut be the proper size for the thickness of the material. Some "standard" sizes are for material in the 1/8" range and they are too thick to properly grab the 16 and 18 gauge aluminum on the Barth. With the proper nutserts both of the tools mentioned will work fine. I repeat however that one should not use open end rivets because they allow water to pass through them. Nutserts require caulking over the screw to seal them.


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny