Is there anyone in the East Tennessee area that can test our system. I checked with a local certified propane guy & he said

1) full system manometer check
2) remove all propane appliances & check
3) All @ $95 per hour

that could take big $$$$. He said time would depend on how easy or hard it would be to remove each appliance.

Thanks,
Tere

Tere,

Maybe try your local CW in Knoxville for a quote. I don't have any service experience with CW however, so suggestion may be ill-advised.

http://www.campingworld.com/st...stores.cfm?store=130


Kirk

Our local shop, RV Merchandising, in Englewood charges me $35 for a propane check. 1/2 hour. I believe they use a spray that shows any sign of leaking. I have it done every other year but will probably go to every year now that the coach is getting a little older. Cheap peace of mind.

The first step is a leakdown check. Put a gauge on the system, turn off all appliances, open tank and note pressure. Shut off tank, wait 10 minutes or so, check pressure. No leak down, end of test.

I do a poor man's version of this fairly often. On my coach I noticed that after I shut off the tank I can run a range burner a few seconds before system pressure is lost... If you can do this the next day the system is not leaking. (After a few days I still have pressure but the "stale" gas doesn't light right away)

If it leaks, then we have to check system and appliance shutoff valves, find leak, test again.

Be sure to carefully inspect any LP flex lines (tank to chassis and any LP generator lines.) Snoop or soap bubbles..

Clean out spider webs from inside all appliance, CHECK VENTS for acorns, debris, etc. Esp in the south, check any wiring connections you can see.

Clean out back side and vents of gas refrigerators! Lots of RV fires each year due to gas frig. Squirrel nests, bugs, leaves, pine needles, etc.

Check each appliance for function. Not rocket science, mostly clean out and maintain! I am convinced that many RV appliance problems are lack of use compounded with irregular maintenance.

Where would you put a gauge on the system? Not too familiar with this kind of stuff but my son-in-law can probably help me.
Jim

Should have a gauge... shouldn't it?
Kirk

Some regulators have plugs you can remove to attach a pressure gauge. LP lines that go to a generator are often on a different regulator with higher pressures. Check the genset specs for gas inlet pressure.

Normal system pressure downstream from the regulator (which is standard for all propane appliances) is 11-13 inches WC (water column) or about 1/2 psi. You need a low pressure gauge or just make a water u-tube. I used 2 pieces of glass tubing about 2 ft long. A short rubber hose connects them at the bottom of the U. Fill tubes 1/2 full. Attach a longer rubber tube to one side, attach to pressure tap or tee in line. Look for 11-13 inches difference in the two sides.

Clear plastic tubing works too for the whole thing, U tube and connector hose.

On gas furnace valve there is often a port for pressure tap. If you check pressure there you know the furnace is getting the correct pressure and the BTU input of the furnace will be correct.

In either case, the system should be able to hold normal pressure if all appliances are off (really off, including pilots) and the tank is also off. The gauge should remain steady if there are no leaks.

Note that the pressure should be compared at close to the same temperatures.