Barthmobile Portal
Auto Fill

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https://www.barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3631087061/m/6951095591

07-09-2006, 05:29 PM
LonnieG
Auto Fill
What to do...auto fill has worked fine for two years. Our favorite campground sometimes has low water pressure so we connect to city water, fill up our water tank with auto fill and then use the tank water for showers. The city water is fine for normal stuff but when we want a shower with some pressure we use the house pump and the tank water.

Now the problem...The auto fill valve works, we shut it off but water continues to seep into the tank and will fill the tank so full it begins to run out the over flow after 9-10 hours (slow seep). We have taken out the valve cleaned in vinegar (BillH's trick)and it has come very clean and free of dirt and rust build up...but it still seeps. It looks as if a very small piece of the valve as cracked and causes a hole inside.
Where on earth do you find a new valve? It looks pretty heavy duty and I think it open and closed with a magnet. Any suggestion on where to find a replacement is appreciated...we can still operate the water system we just need to close the inlet valve (in under the closet floor) to stop the water from seeping into the tank while we are hooked up to city water. A new valve is for convenience only. Smiler
Thanks!


1991 33ft Regal 460 Deere
07-10-2006, 12:57 AM
bill h
quote:
Originally posted by LonnieG:


Where on earth do you find a new valve?


I gave mine away, to another forum member, but here are the notes I took from it:


LP gas equipment corporation
Arlington heights ill

Model 7008B

12v 6w

¼ npt ports

UL listed for LP gas, gasoline—has steel body
.
.
Perhaps a forum member can chase down the company in Arlington Heights.

I would try a 1A575 with a 3PU19 coil from GRAINGER or something from McMaster-Carr first.


My own preference is a manual valve, however. Simple and reliable.

Let me know if the Grainger valve interests you. I am going there tomorrow or the next day, and will give one a look if they have it in stock.


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
07-10-2006, 01:09 AM
Medic37
My auto-fill valve was shot when I bought the vehicle a year ago. I recently removed-it and replaced with straight tubing.

I too am interested in where I could get a replacement valve, but did not get any responses to that question a few months-ago when asked.

It IS a very heavy-duty unit and seems-like there might be something out there in a solenoid operated valve that's a bit-more light weight for it's simple intended purpose.


~Mac~

1990 31 Foot Regency
Spartan Chassis
Cummins 6CTA8.3
Alison MT643, 4-speed
8905-0123-31RDS-A2
07-10-2006, 11:26 AM
olroy
I still have my autofill valve, & the last time I tried it, it still worked, though I have to exercize it occasionally to get it to shut off completely. That, incidentally, is something Lonnie might try before he scraps the whole thing.

I have now a belt & suspenders aproach. Awhile back I plumbed in a bypass line to winterize the hot water heater. While I was at it, I spent a few bucks more, & spent a few minutes to plumb a manual shutoff valve into the autofill line. If the autofill ever permanently refuses to shut off, I can close the manual valve, & if it quits completely, I'll take it out & splice in another piece of tubing.
07-12-2006, 09:38 PM
LonnieG
Thanks Bill for your generous offer...we have gone the belt & suspenders route for now. The small crack on the interior of the valve was the seepage problem. Lonnie put a bit of bondo on it and it is working for right now...we will take our time and look for a replacement valve...if we replace it at all. On our Barth the shut off valves were plumbed in from new so we can always revert to the manual valve method if the auto fill valve acts up again or the bondo doesn't hold. Thanks as always for the advice. Big Grin

Mrs LonnieG


1991 33ft Regal 460 Deere
07-12-2006, 11:26 PM
bill h
quote:
Originally posted by LonnieG:
. Lonnie put a bit of bondo on it and it is working for right now..we can always revert to the manual valve method if the bondo doesn't hold.
Mrs LonnieG


If the Bondo should fail, consider Marine Tex or JB Weld. They are epoxies, rather than polyester, and should stick better and longer. I have done things I cannot mention with them, and they lasted and lasted.


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
07-12-2006, 11:55 PM
Bill N.Y.
quote:
Originally posted by bill h:
...consider Marine Tex or JB Weld. They are epoxies...and should stick better and longer. I have done things I cannot mention with them, and they lasted and lasted.
Yep, I hear you. I like living in my house too. Roll Eyes

Bill N.Y.
07-13-2006, 12:40 AM
olroy
For me, Marine-Tex is in the same league as paper towels, duct tape, & WD-40. I don't know how I managed to live before I found them.

I just finished using Marine-Tex in lieu of re-welding the corners of a basement storage door I rebuilt, & I fully expect it to be holding when the rest of the Barth has rotted away.

When I recover from the trauma of that job, I'll post the experience. Murphy was in charge from the get-go.

Bill's comment about doing things he cannot mention with JB-Weld & Marine-Tex, has nothing to do with living in his house, it's just that you'd never believe them. At least that's the case with some of the stuff I've done.