I have an 86 28 foot Regal Rear Bath twin center beds... My problem is I need a new muffler plus everything that goes after it...I have a Kohler 7000 with dual exhausts which are about 15 1/2 inches apart coming out the bottom of the unit where the muffler sits... alot of rust so I know I am going to have a job getting this all together... The muffler then has a single exhaust which I am assuming is a resonator or such and then exhausts out the side of the unit... Noticed my unit seems louder then most and found my exhaust has a hole nad no pipe to exhaust out side the side of the rv...
Contacted a number of places in the area for help and got these answers
Unit no longer made so you'll have to put in a new Generator...
Kohler sells to RV maker and then they modify to fit need so I need to get one from the RV Manufacturer..

I tried to get them to see if I could match up using another muffer with intakes 15 1/2 inches apart no luck

Any suggestion as to where to turn ....
Also what am I looking for,
I think I need the Generator muffler and the resonator and the piping which I feel I'll be having custom made....
I would like the generator to be as quiet as possible so I would like to do it right the first time...
Thanking you all in advance for your help...
Rabbitt Show this weekend in Columbus so we are off again.. First overnight coming the following weekend again in Columbus at a dog obedience trial.. Not sure if I am more excited about bringing out my new obedience dog or spending the first over night in the unit...


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John Reilly
Big Times Kennel
Centerville Ohio
If you see this... You found me

JReilly,
I have the same unit but am not quite following you. Are you saying that the two header pipes w/90 degree bend coming from manifold thru the bottom of the coach are okay, and the problem starts at the outside?
If so, I would think that a local custom muffler shop could fix you up.

don

PS: Mine doesn't sound like a Honda either but as long as one has taken care of the potential vibration rattles in the closet above, the muffled Kohler is not too bad.

My Kohler has two exhaust pipes pointing downward into the top of a can muffler. The muffler has a horizontal outlet in the middle, and has a spark arrestor attached. Then a 90 degree pipe goes to the side.

I HATE the SOB! It sticks down so low I always hit it boondocking or just maneuvering. I am always rewelding one of the exhaust castings form impact damage. And it is noisy anyway. I am giving serious thought to having each down pipe attached to an ell, with each ell going into a wye, which would go into a muffler. A flat muffler, well tucked up, forward, out of harm's way. You could do it yourself, or a good muffler man could do it. I believe a Simca Aronde muffler would be good. Or a Hillman Husky.

Don Writes
I have the same unit but am not quite following you. Are you saying that the two header pipes w/90 degree bend coming from manifold thru the bottom of the coach are okay,

Yes the first part as you discribe it appears to be ok and as stated the problem begins on the outside...

and the problem starts at the outside?
If so, I would think that a local custom muffler shop could fix you up.
don

PS: Mine doesn't sound like a Honda either but as long as one has taken care of the potential vibration rattles in the closet above, the muffled Kohler is not too bad.

I have that small Honda and if I were everto replace the Kohler would go the mega bucks for a honda...
Thanks for the lead... called a few muffler places yesterday and no luck yet finding someone willing to tackle the problem.. But if they are out there I will find them....
Thanks John

My Kohler has two exhaust pipes pointing downward into the top of a can muffler. The muffler has a horizontal outlet in the middle, and has a spark arrestor attached. Then a 90 degree pipe goes to the side.
I HATE the SOB! It sticks down so low I always hit it boondocking or just maneuvering. I am always rewelding one of the exhaust castings form impact damage. And it is noisy anyway. I am giving serious thought to having each down pipe attached to an ell, with each ell going into a wye, which would go into a muffler. A flat muffler, well tucked up, forward, out of harm's way. You could do it yourself, or a good muffler man could do it. I believe a Simca Aronde muffler would be good. Or a Hillman Husky.


So a spark arrester goes on after the muffler. and then it exhausts to the side of the coach... Any ideas where I could get a spark arrester?????

It sounds like you have my same set up ... I'll be calling muffler places today to see if I can get some help... By the way, back in the 60's I had a Simca with 4 on the column and had to puh it everytime I needed to start it..
Thanks for the insight I'll post how I do....If I go the custom route I'll make sure it is tucked up and out of the way... Anything I should be aware of that you know that could be a problem???

John

quote:

Originally posted by JReilly:
Any ideas where I could get a spark arrester?????
John

Spark arrestors are required for motorcycles and chain saws in National Forests. Not sure about gensets. Perhaps you don't need one.

Of course, if you boondock and run the genset in areas where there is combustable material like dry grass, leaves or duff on the ground, a spark arrestor is a good idea.

Some spark arrestors also act as mufflers. Here are some links from my files:

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/strapmain.cfm

I use the Supertrapp disk mufflers on my rump-rump boat when I do not want to offend, and they are pretty quiet.

http://www.pittauto.com/pinfo/supertrapp.asp

Any good muffler shop should be able to get you a Walker spark arrestor:

http://www.walkerheavyduty.com/pdf/SparkArrestors.pdf

And here is a good site with reasonable prices:

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/buggy/special/LR6.htm

John, I took a picture of my muffler for you while it is off, and will send it if I can get an address for you.

OK, I'll send it snail. Email would be quicker, though.

OK, John, it's on the way. I should add here that the muffler is held on only by the band typoe clamps. Vibration and gravity can cause you to lose it. If it is secured from falling, be sure the attachment allows the muffler to vibrate in formation with the genset. Whoever worked on mine before was apparently unaware of this, and mounted it rigidly to the mounting plate. This ultimately caused the ridiculously overpriced cast exhaust outlet to break way up on top. Also, the end caps can rattle, but red silicone rubber forced into the seam fixes that.

This also applies to Onans.

I have the original manual for my Kohler genset. Here are several part numbers for you..

Above floor - exh. out bottom

curb side - 278224
Street side - 278223

Below floor - exh. out of the back

Street or curb - 278189
Curb side - exh. out rear exh. 2782178

they also have complete kit part numbers (in same order)
pa-278221
pa-278206
pa-278205
pa-278219

800-544-2444

Be advised that some of the exhaust parts are incredibly overpriced and some of the numbers in the book are incorrect. I ended up having mine welded at least twice.

If I were going to keep my Kohler, I would weld flanges on the outlets with captive nuts and use flanges to attach elbows which would go into a wye into a small muffler located out of harm's way. Then an "up" augmentor pipe alongside the ladder to get fumes out of my breathing space and to be kind to my neighbors.

quote:

Originally posted by bill h:
Be advised that some of the exhaust parts are incredibly overpriced and some of the numbers in the book are incorrect. I ended up having mine welded at least twice.

If I were going to keep my Kohler, I would weld flanges on the outlets with captive nuts and use flanges to attach elbows which would go into a wye into a small muffler located out of harm's way. Then an "up" augmentor pipe alongside the ladder to get fumes out of my breathing space and to be kind to my neighbors.

Bill,

I found that because the muffler brace was not tight/rigid, It allowed the header pipes to viberate backards from the manifold. When they back off so far, the sniffer senses exhaust leak and kills the engine. Almost impossible to tighten the header U-clamp tight enoungh, given the added element of extreme heat expansion. The clamp swells. Possibly, there is a better clamp than the cheap generic?

Your idea, mentioned months ago, about a piece of flex being needed in the set-up, was spot-on. Still thinking about which material and where to make the splices.

I did tighten the header clamp, while hot, and install a rubber shim between the muffler bracket/brace and coach bottom to keep the vertical (M on M) movement out of play.

Now, I think a foam shim between the inside wall of the closet and the potty tank vent stack, will finally end the rattles?

BTW: I read all the latest post a few moments ago and I believe Dave was on the cloud grapes again, about Thursday. The man is ready to hit the road, I tell'ya! :-)

[This message has been edited by dogill (edited May 14, 2005).]

[This message has been edited by dogill (edited May 14, 2005).]

[This message has been edited by dogill (edited May 14, 2005).]

quote:

Originally posted by dogill:


I found that because the muffler brace was not tight/rigid, It allowed the header pipes to viberate backards from the manifold. When they back off so far, the sniffer senses exhaust leak and kills the engine. Almost impossible to tighten the header U-clamp tight enoungh, given the added element of extreme heat expansion. The clamp swells. Possibly, there is a better clamp than the cheap generic?

Your idea, mentioned months ago, about a piece of flex being needed in the set-up, was spot-on. Still thinking about which material and where to make the splices.

I did tighten the header clamp, while hot, and install a rubber shim between the muffler bracket/brace and coach bottom to keep the vertical (M on M) movement out of play.

Now, I think a foam shim between the inside wall of the closet and the potty tank vent stack, will finally end the rattles?

BTW: I read all the latest post a few moments ago and I believe Dave was on the cloud grapes again, about Thursday. The man is ready to hit the road, I tell'ya! :-)

[This message has been edited by dogill (edited May 14, 2005).]

[This message has been edited by dogill (edited May 14, 2005).]

[This message has been edited by dogill (edited May 14, 2005).]

No, I don't like any clamps. That is why I would go to the flanges. I buy my flex from JC Whitney or Mcmaster-Carr. When I use flex, I put it together with a paste muffler cement or I just silver solder it, if it is to be permanent. Holt's Gun Gum is my favorite muffler cement.

Just made up a muffler kit for my 4.5 Kohler from parts found at NAPA, working so far.

Charles