While replacing two tubes that I use to store my sewer line under the belly of the Barth I noticed that one of the 4 rods holding up the blackwater tank had pulled out of the floor above and determined that I needed to remove the toilet and the box it sits on to access the floor.

I got out the toilet but am having difficulty figuring out how to remove the flange on top of the box without destroying the flange, downtube or black water tank. Below are pictures of the setup. I have tried loosening the top flange by striking it with a hammer and dowel but it doesn't budge which leads me to believe that it may be glued together. Any suggestions for removing the flange will be greatly appreciated.







Thank you.
Carl Feren

Carl, you are probably right in that it is all glued together. I have always had the best luck in cutting the pipe and then use a splicer when putting the flange and stub back on.

Carl, Been there, done that, but my drain went directly into the tank through a flexible plastic, or rubber sleeve, & I just pulled the whole thing straight up through the floor, then replaced the plywood deck. If your drain pipe is not a straight shot into the tank, it's not likely my solution is valid for you.

Before you start cutting, try rotating your drain back & forth while you pull up on it, & you may find it will come right out.

It was hard to feed the drain pipe back into the tank, and when I was done, the top of the tank was slightly depressed, but it worked.

Good luck!!!

quote:

Originally posted by Gerald:
Carl, you are probably right in that it is all glued together. I have always had the best luck in cutting the pipe and then use a splicer when putting the flange and stub back on.

That's "schedule 40 pipe". I think I would just cut it in half and glue a coupler back into place too.

There is a threaded fit between the flange and the downtube. Try using some very large slip joint pliers, and then you'll know for sure if you have a glued fit as well.
Matt

Thanks for all the help guys. Our RV shop in town, who has worked on Barths before, said that it is most likely glued and to cut it and sleeve it but I am going to get two large sets of pliers and "gently" try to twist off the top. failing that I will just cut it.

Thanks for all the feedback. It's really comforting to know that others have dealt with this same issue. I will let you know how it goes.

Carl

That ABS pipe is just a slip fit into the tank, it is not glued! No need to cut it. Just try to rotate it a bit while pulling up and it will slide upwards, will take a bit of force but it will come.

When finished do not loosen the clamp around the rubber joint to the tank, just apply lots of RTV around the ABS pipe and into the coupling on the tank and it will slip right back in and seal well.

I just did this and it was easy, I did replace the piece of ABS pipe because the flange was distorted because of how it was assembled and the hole thru the floor was not proper and only a part of the flange was screwed to the floor, I replaced the flooring as well. I shortened the ABS tube because it (again as came from the factory) was way to far into the tank and while flushing would bubble back after the tank was only half full! Still have to address the vent pipe as it is also to far into the tank.

HTH

MWrench's problem & solution were identical to what I described in my post at 1235 this AM, but I had to replace my plywood deck; it was rotted from a long-standing leak in the flange, & I didn't have enough sense to lubricate the pipe with RTV before I re-installed it in the tank. My vent, too, was too long as manufactured, but I didn't reduce its length.

If yours is like MWrench's & mine, you shouldn't have to do any cutting unless you want to replace the flange.