I am replacing bulbs with LEDs. Next on the list is two red bulbs that are running lights and signal lights together...the vendor recommends a load resistor to make the signals work right. But this increases current draw. Is this counter-productive? I'm trying to lower the current draw with lights on.

Depends on type of flasher you have. The older style uses a bi-metal strip that requires heat (load) to to change states and the solid state unit the load makes no difference. If you have the old style you can replace it with a solid state unit.

Thanks where should I look for the flasher?

I got mine at NAPA - there are at least 2: Turn signals and flashers. I think mine has a third, for the brake lights. I haven't found it yet, so put an 1157 bulb in parallel.

The LED taillights I got (1157-R2W Red 90 Degree from SuperBrightsLEDs.com.) are far superior to the incandescents they replaced.

I had to replace three flasher cans on my Barth because I changed to LED stop/turn lights.
MY Barth had one can for the left side, one for the right side and one for the four way flashers.

Any NAPA store should have them. Just tell them you need a flasher can for LED's. I got the heavy duty ones so they would also work the lights on my towed vehicle.

The cans on my 1985 Regency were located in the right front storage compartment. Just open the grey electrical box and they should be right there.

quote:

1157-R2W Red 90 Degree

Just ordered today from SuperBrightLED. I thought I needed dual function for brake lights.

The ones I listed are dual function - tail and brake lights, and are likely brighter than the ones you listed. FWIW, 1157 is a dual filament lamp; 1156 is single.

Why would you expect those to be brighter? Because they are facing straight out? I don't think I got good advice from tech support...I can switch these out before I install. Yeah, I discovered the filament difference.

I think the ones Rusty used are the same as the ones I used. They are 90 degree and swivel to allow the single 2 watt LED to be centered in the taillight lens. No back scatter, very bright.



Depending on the orientation of the bulb with respect to the lens, the ones you have may work well.

Replaced bulbs with LEDs in 2 back-up lights, 4 turn signals, 2 side illumination lights (turn on steady with turn signal on one side), and 2 brake lights.

All is well except turn signals. With all 4 LEDs they don't flash. With 2 front signals LED and 2 rear bulbs, they do flash.

Ideas? Does anybody see a flasher in this photo?

Do like rusty suggests in another thread... Put regular bulb back in so they flash .. And listen under the dash dash and in the electrical compartment and listen for the flasher clicking....replace it with a new electronic flasher ... I know they should be two maybe three flasher cans...turn signals and four-way flashers... Rusty says there is one for brake lights but I don't know why... Good luck....

What LED part number and mfg. did you use for the non flashing yellow side and top red marker lights?

I would like to change those out first.

Thanks, Mark

Superbrightlights.com

1157-W45-T: 1157 Cool White for non flashing side lights (mine are not amber)

NOTE: I originally posted 1157-R45-T: 1157 Red top marker lights but this is not right; I think I've found the right bulb and will edit this when I know)

BTW I replaced back-ups with 1156 LEDs (1156-WW45-T: 1156 Warm White) and had already replaced the big tractor style back-ups with LEDs (AUX-10W-Rx) and the result is AWESOME. You better have sunglasses on if you stand back there when all four are on in the dark.