One of my plans is to redo the floor tiles on my Barth. The floor tiles in there held up great - I found no instances of cracked grout or damaged tiles from flexing. There are a few broken tiles from things dropping on them and my wife wanted to tile the entire floor.

Right now the floor is half carpet and half tile. Center Bath with tile around the sink, toilet and shower drivers side. Carpet at the center walkway and in the 2 closets.

What size tile would you use for this? I'm of the belief that smaller tiles would be better for flexing issues

What type of grout would you use? To me, it looks like regular grout and not caulk.

Of course, I could avoid the whole tile scenario and go with a piece of linoleum... But, my wife expressed interest in tile, so I'm seeking knowledge from someone who has "Been There, Done That" in an RV.

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1990 Barth Regis 40' Widebody
8908-0128-40RDS-C1
L-10 Cummins
Allison MT647
Spartan Chassis

The main concern here is the mastic used to hold the tile down. I've seen an underlayment used in houses that peel and sticks to the floor, then the proper mastic is used to set the tile. They say this eliminates any cracking due to settling, especially in the upper floors, so it seems like a good idea for a coach app. I used 2" squares in my coach bath, directly on the wood, and it's held up fine with no cracking at all, but it's a reletively small area. I'd go to a real tile store,[not Homey], and pick their brains about the underlayment and anything else they have to say.

Hi Bill, Been there - done that...Here's my two cents:

1. If the subfloor is clean & flat, with no need to correct defects by flashing-in w/ thin set, I recommend you look at Bondera....basically, double sided adhesive sheet stock...faster/easier than mastics. Mine has
gone through 5 years & 8k miles without a problem. FMI: http://www.bonderatilematset.com/ Note: Mfg says NOT to use on floors - I did anyway

2. Latex fortifier, blended into joint grout mix, will give grout lines added strength & density, but more importantly it enhances flexural strength, thereby reducing grout cracking. Comes in bottles, looks like
no-fat milk. Caveat: Sticks like crazy, so stay ahead of it during grout wipe-down (i.e.: constantly rinse
out sponges & rags as you go.)

3. Square tiles in stacked-bond pattern appear to be less prone to flex-cracking. Avoid running bond patterns and/or rectangular tiles w/ larger length-to-width ratios. Straight-through, uninterupted grout lines take stress better & reduce chances of tile cracking.

What kind of mileage do you get with all that brick?

Hi Bill...Have you considered this product..
http://www.schluter.com/4087.aspx
It really works as a decoupler. I've used it
in a home bathroom reno. Very flexy floor. 5 yrs and not a cracking problem.

quote:

What kind of mileage do you get with all that brick?

Danny has fake brick, but it looks realistic (and great!)

Bill,

I highly recommend you use the latex thin-set with epoxy grout. I used this on my 150 year old house up north in the carriage house that heaved with frost every year. Never an issue. I've seen demonstrations where the tile is set on a piece of thin luan and bent almost in a circle with no separation or cracking. Of course, the smaller the tile the better as it won't bend at all. I would suggest 12" tile or less. To small might look busy.

Another great product is cork. There are many awesome patterns, not at all like the cork-board look.