Hello, need some advise here. '93 Regency, Spartan mountain master chassis. Last summer we did a 1.2k run to Ohio and back. noticed burnt gear oil smell at first stop, looked under the coach (i carry a creaper) and no signs of leak. Got to Ohio, smell still there, and now a clicking sound. the noise and smell was coming from the RF wheel bearing. went to a "truck stop" repair center, they replaced the sight window type cover and tightened the wheel bearings by torqueing them to 50 lbs. refilled both sides with new lube and off we went. made it to southern West. Va. and pulled into a camp ground for the night. noticed the smell was back. sight window was full. Now while trouble shooting vaccuum leaks, electrical gremlins, other fun stuff, I noticed the window was empty!!! oil all over the inside wheel/tire and in the gravel.

Questions:
1. how hard to change the seals myself?
2. Should the wheel bearings be torqued to 50 lbs? seems excessive? Can't find any docs on the internet to direct.
3. Will the brake shoes be soaked when i pull it down and need replaced too?

Thoughts, suggestions, tips, greatly appreciated!!! Unemployed and broke, so, this is a DIY must do.

No torque on the bearings - tighten them down and then back em off a bit. I know, "a bit" isn't a measurement. - it really is, "just a little" as there is usually no preload on these if there is not a spacer between the bearings.

Do the bearings too, if needed.

If you're comfortable doing it then yes. But, based on these questions, you should probably pay someone to do it for you.

Brake shoes, if soaked, will probably need to be replaced.

Bill,
Thanks, I have wrenched all my life and have oil in the veins, lol. Taht is the way I always have done bearings too. But, this is my first experience at the "big stuff". Had an Airstream P30 345 "bullet" to learn MH school of hard knocks first, but, bus chassis stuff is just a little bigger. We have a Truck Pro parts place here in Greenville, SC. I imagine they would be the best over the counter parts store for these parts.

I've read up on adjusting the brakes for the Air system, once I get into this, I might ask for some pointers. Don't want to get brakes wrong.

Thanks,
Brian

Big brake shoes are $$$$$. We get them relined by a specialist shop (easy in Houston) and I would recommend shopping for a place near you. Last time we did some on a F8000 dump we spent $75 for all four shoes on the front.

When we had the GM 4106 bus, I had to adjust the brakes. Discovered the hammer technic. Tap the drum and keep adjusting until it quits ringing. At this time back it off a hair or until ringing is back. BTW this only works on drum brakes. Will not work on disc brakes.