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MORE BATTERY QUESTIONS
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<therealtigger>
posted
while we are on the subject of batteries, I need to know if it's OK for me to jump my
engine battery using the one on my PU truck?
I'm not quite sure how the aux battery power thing works, but I was told mine didn't. Also,
is it ok to just keep a trickle charge going while living on 120 cord?
I can't seem to manage to start my RV every couple of days to keep it charged.
One more - Do I need to start the generator every week or so even though I'm not using it?
There sure seems to be a lot to learn with these dears.

thanks,
Rusti
 
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She who must be obeyed
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me, Ensign 3rd crass
"5+ Years of Active Membership"
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1) I need to know if it's OK for me to jump my engine battery using the one on my PU truck?

Sure, assuming your pickup is not a 1927 vintage with a six volt system. If you reverse the leads on modern cars when jumping it does tend to smoke all sorts of expensive things, take care; positive to positive. Following step 3 this should not be needed.


2) I'm not quite sure how the aux battery power thing works, but I was told mine didn't.

Sorry I don't have anything like that on my coach. Now there is a load balancing thing that charges the house batteries after the engine starts on my coach but that is a different deal.

3) Also,is it ok to just keep a trickle charge going while living on 120 cord?
I can't seem to manage to start my RV every couple of days to keep it charged.

If you pop for a "good" charger that will not continue to charge a charged battery this is a very good idea. I do this on my motorcycles and the coach, the batteries will last longer.


4) One more - Do I need to start the generator every week or so even though I'm not using it?


In my experience running the generator two hours a week keeps it running better and makes it last longer, I do this both on the coach and the boat. I strongly recommend doing this.
 
Posts: 282 | Location: Studio City, California | Member Since: 02-07-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Gunner
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"I'm not quite sure how the aux battery power thing works, but I was told mine didn't..."
Usually the Aux battery thing is a solenoid switch, activated by a toggle- or rocker- switch on the dash, that connects the chassis battery with the house battery(ies) as long as the dash switch is activated. You may have one that is inoperable; if so, get a new solenoid. Follow the cable leads from both batteries and see if one large + cable from each go to a common electrical device; if so, this is your aux bat solenoid. Caution: If you're not sure of what you're doing do not mess with this wiring! OR: Use a heavy-duty automotive jumper cable from your house battery(ies) to your chassis battery to jump start the coach - this is the same as using the pickup battery.

------------------
"You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood

[This message has been edited by Gunner (edited January 29, 2005).]
 
Posts: 474 | Location: Republic of Texas | Member Since: 12-31-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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When my alternator belt broke and my engine batteries gave up the ghost. I called Coachnet who sent a guy out and put a new belt on, on the side of the freeway and I jump the engine batteries with the coach batteries.

If your batteries are running down after a couple days of sitting you either have a bad battery or you have something that is drawing down your battery. The first thing to looks for are radios which are on, or the smoke CO2 detector. My coach have sit for months without going dead. But, I keep mine plugged in 24/7, 365 days a year. If you have a converter which is less than 20 years old you shouldn't have to worry about boiling your batteries. These converters are made to keep this from happening. But, if you are still worried about that, buy a Bettery Minder,



There $40 at Walmart and you can deep charge up to 8 batteries I think and it will maintain your batteries at a perfect charge and it runs on 120 vac
 
Posts: 1658 | Location: Eden Prairie, MN 55346 USA | Member Since: 01-01-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<therealtigger>
posted
I'm running an extention cord 24/7 (actually I'm living in the RV while building a house) but it doesn't seem to have any effect on the engine battery.

Rusti
 
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Picture of Gunner
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quote:
Originally posted by therealtigger:
I'm running an extention cord 24/7 (actually I'm living in the RV while building a house) but it doesn't seem to have any effect on the engine battery.

Rusti

The shore cable usually charges ONLY the coach batteries; just like a truck, the chassis battery is only charged when the engine is running.



------------------
"You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood
 
Posts: 474 | Location: Republic of Texas | Member Since: 12-31-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of davebowers
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Yes good point Rusti and Gunner. The converter does not charge the engine battery. I do have the switch on the dash which is suppose to automatically connect the house batteries to the engine battery for starting but I don't think it works. So I just put some jumper cables between the two if I have to. But I never do.
 
Posts: 1658 | Location: Eden Prairie, MN 55346 USA | Member Since: 01-01-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<therealtigger>
posted
Well I'm still fighting the battery problem.
Now, I get NOTHING when I turn on the ignition.
No dials move, but I'm not sure they ever did before it cranked.
So I put a jumper from the pos on my engine battery to the pos on my house batteries. I can't get to the neg of either of these, the drawer won't roll out any more and my hand won't fit back there, but I thought since both negs were wired to the chasis (they are arn't they?) it should make a circuit. However the RV didn't think so, becauae nothing happened (not a peep).
so I went to wal-mart and paid 40.00 for a charger with a monitor and testing gauge which said it had 6%. Its out of the coach and charging on the charger now. Next, I pulled up the lid between the seats to see where it hooks into the system. (At the starter solanoid?).
The ponly thing I could find that looked like any solanoid I ever saw was on the back wall
at the right side.
It has 4 connectors, 2 big and 2 small. they are at 7, 9, 11 and 1 o'clock.
The one at 7 is a large terminal and has a red wire.
The one at 9 is a small terminal and has 2 black wires.
The one at 11 is also small and is red.
The one at 1 o'clock is big and has 2 reds coming from differet places. and 2 yellows that are tied together with electic tape not to far from where they terminate. All of the various wires are kind of stuffed together back there and without a lot more light and some crawling over the engine I can't tell where any of them go. (I don't have this in a shed of any kind it's in the woods behind my former house and I was hoping to move it to it's new home this weekend.)
If anybody can tell me how these wires relate to each other and which are hot when the ignition is off I would really be greatful.

And BTW, is this the starter solanoid?
 
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"And BTW, is this the starter solanoid?"

It is not the starter solenoid; the starter solenoid is mounted on the starter, which is located on the passenger side of the engine, low and at the rear - it is cylindrical. The starter solenoid has no relation to your current (pun!) problem.


------------------
"You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood

[This message has been edited by Gunner (edited February 06, 2005).]
 
Posts: 474 | Location: Republic of Texas | Member Since: 12-31-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<therealtigger>
posted
OK Gunnar - I guess I can assume it's the aux power solanoid. that would mean that 2 of the
wires coming in would be the 2 pos (1 from the chasis battery and 1 from the house set-right?)
and one of the wires coming in would have to run from the switch on the dash.
What the heck are all the other ones for?

BTW After I got the batattery charged and pout it back in the engine started just fine, so either i had the lowest charge in the world or a poor contact from the prevoius install.
BUT I STILL WANT TO KNOW WHAT ALL THOSES SILLY WIRES GO TO!

THANKS
 
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On my coach there are a few items that draw their current directly from the engine battery. They would be the CO2 detected, the step, the radio and the defrost fans. I can't say for sure but I would say the heated mirrors also.

------------------

 
Posts: 1658 | Location: Eden Prairie, MN 55346 USA | Member Since: 01-01-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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RUSTI
I hope you have your problem solved. I checked out Daves CD There is a section on
" 84 GASSER WIREING DIAG" It might help you in tracing your wires out so as to find the problem. If you don't have the CD maybe Dave could send you the section on wiring.

Ralph Glover
 
Posts: 167 | Location: LaFontaine, IN,USA | Member Since: 07-03-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<therealtigger>
posted
I'd love to have a copy of Daves CD. Where can I get such a thing?

Rusti
P.S.
I do have the old bus running, but I'd still like to know more about whats going on inside.
 
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Picture of Gunner
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"I guess I can assume it's the aux power solanoid"..
Don't assume anything - no offense, but it might be any of several things. Ruined wiring is almost impossible to fix (Says the guy who has been there!)
PS: ASSUME makes an ASS out of U and ME

[This message has been edited by Gunner (edited February 09, 2005).]
 
Posts: 474 | Location: Republic of Texas | Member Since: 12-31-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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DAVE TELL HIM HOW TO GET A COPY OF THE CD.
I SENT DAVE $25.00 AND HE SENT ME THE CD.

RALPH GLOVER
1976 BARTH 27'

ON THE CD THERE IS A TOPIC ABOUT HEAT SOAK WHERE THEY INSTALL A SOLENOID ON THE FIREWALL ABOVE THE RADIATOR.
 
Posts: 167 | Location: LaFontaine, IN,USA | Member Since: 07-03-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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