My Breakaway made the trip from South Jersey thru the mountains to Watkins Glen, NY with just temperature rise issues (210-220, temp alarm did not come on) on the long uphill runs. It was 85+ degrees and humid. All in all, I was pleased with the running temperature of the coach, especially the trip back home where it ran cool (190) 95% of the time. It was 75 degrees and lower humidity. I am going to look into adding electric fans to the radiator, but it seems that the addition of the trans cooler with electric fan has helped.
But, my issue was once it was parked in the campground. Maybe someone has some insight to what may be taking place...
The front roof top A/C unit was on from when I left on Thursday (I use it for cooling as we travel because my dash air doesn't work) and thru most of the weekend with no problem. I set it on automatic with the temp set at around 72. When going into the coach on Saturday night, I was greeted by a 63 degree temperature. The fan was running and blowing ice cold air. It was obvious that the compressor was locked in and not cycling. So, I shut off the unit. The compressor continued to run (hum). That baffled me, as I thought the switch on the unit would shut everything down. I then threw the breaker feeding shore power into the coach. That shut off the compressor. Later that night I hear a humming noise and sure enough, the compressor is running again with the unit being off. I turned on the unit and the fan started blowing ice cold air again. I shut it off again and the compressor continued to run (hum). I then threw the breaker feeding the unit and shut it down. Anybody have any idea what is going on here???
Thanks in advance for any input. I'll post later about my TV and radio problem after I do a search to see if I can find a possible solution to those problems.

What happens if you throw the breaker for that air conditioner?

Richard,
That is the only way I can shut down the front unit completely. I have not tried to turn the breaker back on to see what would happen, as I do not want to do any damage to the unit if I can help it. It will run and blow cold air. It just would not kick the compressor off, so it continues to blow ice cold air even after the temp in the coach goes well below the thermostat setting on the unit. I thought that maybe that the thermostat had gone bad on the unit, but what really baffles me is that after I threw the switch to the off position, the compressor still ran.

I'm opening this back up again, because I never did find what had happened back then and this past weekend, just the opposite problem. This weekend my front unit stopped working. Fan blows, just no cold air. First it was cycling with the compressor kicking on for about 1.5-2 minutes and then waiting another few minutes before it would do it again. Then, in 90+ temperatures yesterday the compressor would not kick in at all. So I go from the compressor not shutting off to now it will not kick in. Any thoughts or experiences? I'm supposed to go away this weekend again, but cannot do 90 degree days without air.
Bruce
p.s. I now notice the rear unit starting to cycle a bit also....

Maybe this does not apply, but a the campground last week one of the MHs would keep tripping the box. With the AC running the coach was trying to draw 40 amps.

They pulled the cover of the AC and it was packed inside with leaves and other material. Washed it out and all returned to normal.

Gary,
Wish I could say that might be the problem, but I just replaced the gasket on the roof of this unit along with the shroud so I know everything is clean...
I wonder if these can be tested/re-charged?

B&K, I had troubled with my A/C not blowing cold enough and found that the rubber sponge gasket on the inside of the shroud was very badly compromised. A lot of internal hot air was being recirculated and cooling the compressed gas was not efficient. I replaced that gasket and all is well again.

I wish I had an answer for you. I had A/C problems too and just decided to replace my roof units. I had 2 motors burn out on my roof and found that the cost of the replacement parts was almost the same cost as 2 new units with heat pumps included.

In early May, I replaced both of my Coleman Roof 15k BTU A/C units with 2 New 15k Carrier A/C With Heat Pumps.

If you are thinking about installing a new a/c unit, you might want to consider one with a heat pump and save your propane when you are plugged into shore power.

Specs: 115VAC, 12.9 cooling amps, 11.8 heating amps, Nominal Cooling Capacity 15,000 (BTU), Nominal Heating Capacity 11,600 (BTU).

I purchased both units from http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/familyrvrepair/ for $645.05 each (top & bottom complete) plus $89.00 for shipping. If you live in Florida, you can pick it up from him. Very good ebayer and prompt with shipping.

Seeing that my coach is 100% electric, this was my best option.

not knowing what model you have, I have looked at Duo therm install manual. It shows a k6 relay on the electronic board that controls just the compressor. could have welded contacts that are now getting hot and opening up. what I can't tell is what controls the relay. (diagram dosen't go that deep)

Bill,
Wish I could get them for that price. Seems the price has increased considerably on that unit!!!
Doorman,
I might have a wiring diagram. Problem is, no parts are available for these units anymore.
Might have to go to repalcement...

I got my new unit from PPL. Much lower than anyone else, 3 day shipping, and knowledgable people to talk to.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/p...oner-parts-1.htm#Air Conditioners - Duo Therm Brisk Air

I have a sort of related A/C problem. I bought my 1984 Regal 35' last December. For the first time, I fired up the Colemon roof airs and both are dripping condensate inside the coach. Am I correct to guess a drain is clogged? What's the easiest way to unclog it? I was going to take off the shrouds and look around uptop. Thanks, K&E

From experience I'd say the seal is shot. The drains just go out the bottom of the unit then follow gravity to the nearest way off the roof. If it's leaking around the AC unit to the inside it's probably the seal. A new seal is about 22 bucks, and will be MUCH thicker than the old one you take off. It's not a big project, so don't be scared. You might want a 5/16 nut driver for the 4 mounting bolts, cause they can be very long and a cordless drill makes quick work of it. The plastic tabs are gauges to tell you how tight to crank them back down. They should touch the roof. The bolts won't feel really tight but they are. You won't compress the seal more than maybe 1/3, and you might think that's not enough, but I don't have any leaks no matter what any more. If I've missed anything I hope the guys will fill it in, and I hope this helps.

has the red light on your thermostat gone on ? I just know that if it has gone on you had a drop in voltage to below 97 volts . Could have damaged the compressor or the relay
might be stuck ..
lenny

Lenny,
No, I did not experience a low volage signal in the unit. The fan continued to run, but the compressor just won't kick on. Both the front and rear units blow cold air when the compressors run.
I have a RV tech stopping by to take a look at the unit. We had a discussion and agreed that if it is something simple like a start or run capacitor or a relay malfunction, we will do a repair. If not, with the unit being 17 years old it would make more sense to replace it.
I am leaning toward a standard size Carrier replacment unit. Though it was nice that Barth installed the more expensive Penguin units on my Breakaway, I do not necessarily need a low profile unit. And though the Duo Therm has served well, I do not like the way the new ones install. I do not want to go thru any extra installation steps other than removing one and installing another, which means the units controls need to be self contained on the ceiling kit and I prefer the ceiling kit mounts to the unit and not my ceiling of the Barth. And I am not concerned about automatic operation on the front unit. It will either be on high or low speeds all the time when in use. As I do not use the Barth in the cold months, a heat strip is all that I require to take a fall chill off. I have used my furnace maybe twice because of a low outdoor temperature in the morning. And even then it was only on long enough to take the chill off. Hell, I start it more just to run it thru a cycle to keep it in operating order more than I actually have had to use it in 4 years!
Anyway, that's the latest here. I'll keep you posted.....