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1988 Regency electric step

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03-24-2008, 03:12 PM
Keith Hopper
1988 Regency electric step
I am having electrical issues that seem to be related to the electric steps, which only intermittently work. Just bought an '88 Regency 36' and there is a lot I don't know about it.

Is this a likely cause of rapid house battery drain (can't find anything else that might be taking current)?

Is there a source for replacement electric steps?




1988 Regency
38' Gillig
3208 T Cat
03-24-2008, 03:57 PM
sky
Keith, do you know who the manufacturer was? My regency has the kwikee steps and I have a manual on them. I broke a lever on mine and went to the local rv parts and the store had the part in stock. sky


1990 Barth Regency
32RDGB1 Wide Body
3208 Cat 250 HP
Gillig Chassis
Center aisle
03-24-2008, 03:57 PM
bill h
Do you have a multimeter? Have you measured the amp drain?

Have you gone to the Kwikee site? They have good trouble shooting info.

Many many step problems are the result of low battery voltage, either caused by whatever or low voltage at the step motor, often caused by poor connections.

Clean everything up, paying particular attention to the ground connection.

You could also disconnect the motor and run grond and hot jumper direct from the battery to the connections. One polarity should move the step one way, and reversing the polarity should move the step the other way. Do not stall the motor. If this does not move the step, listen for the motor running and look for spark. Measure the current draw. The motor is easy to replace with a Ford window motor. Search this site for the right number.

You can also disconnect a clevis pin and raise or lower the step manually. Or you can bypass the control box if the motor works, and use a DPDT switch for an ultra-reliable step.


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
03-24-2008, 07:34 PM
Rusty
The step is probably activated by a magnetic switch; all that's visible is a round plastic disk in the door frame (there are 2 - the other does the step lights).

There is also a "manual" swtich; on my Breakaway, it's on the wall, ganged with the switches for the grab light, overhead light, and step light.

Those switches can be a source of trouble, with the magnetic switch the usual culprit.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
03-24-2008, 07:45 PM
Keith Hopper
quote:
Originally posted by bill h:
Do you have a multimeter? Have you measured the amp drain?
No, but I'll get one. The house batteries are new but something is completely draining them within 24 hours of charge by the Onan generator. The step is the most obvious culprit but it may not be related.

Thanks




1988 Regency
38' Gillig
3208 T Cat
03-24-2008, 08:29 PM
Rusty
If the drain is that quick, the little multimeters (used as ammeters) won't like the current draw and will blow a fuse or a circuit board; few for less than $200 can handle more than 5A. Automotive test meters can come with a shunt that can handle upwards of 50A, but they're hard to find now that cars are computerized.

However, a standard multimeter can serve if you disconnect all the circuits and reconnect one at a time, measuring the battery voltage for each as it's reconnected. Most of the digital meters are sensitive enough to indicate the circuit with the worst voltage drop.

Anyway, IMHO, it's not the step - that has only a window-lift motor, which is fused at 10 or 15A, and your drain would seem to exceed that. However, everything is suspect...

Actually, the first thing I'd suspect in the converter-charger: 1. Is it really charging the batteries to full?, and/or, 2. is the power leaking back through after charging?


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
03-25-2008, 08:27 PM
Keith Hopper
quote:

Actually, the first thing I'd suspect in the converter-charger: 1. Is it really charging the batteries to full?, and/or, 2. is the power leaking back through after charging?


Thanks for the tip. This is beyond my trouble-shooting skill. We're taking it to the local RV service guys tomorrow.

BTW, we would appreciate any tips on potential Barth service places in or near metro Atlanta area.




1988 Regency
38' Gillig
3208 T Cat
05-03-2008, 09:24 PM
Keith Hopper
I thought someone might be interested in the outcome to this issue. After a LONG visit to the RV repair shop, the problem was apparently resolved by:

<1> Replacing a defective circuit breaker for the electric step
<2> Replacing a defective (although new) house battery
<3> Repairing a few "hot spots" in the wiring system (the coach is 20 years old)




1988 Regency
38' Gillig
3208 T Cat