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rear wheel seal

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07-22-2004, 03:07 AM
Dennis
rear wheel seal
I was just coming down a pass from 5000 feet and we had to stop for road work. I noticed that there was a little smoke coming off the real brake. I crawled under the rig and saw that there was some grease on the brake rotor. I tore into it today and I think that I have to replace the rotor and caliper. I also think that I'll have to replace the rear wheel seal. Have any of you ever tore into those things? Do I have to remove the rear axle to get to the seal and get the rotor off? Thanks.
07-22-2004, 03:11 AM
Dennis
I forgto menion that this a P-30 1986 28 foot with rotor type brakes all around. Dennis
07-25-2004, 03:04 AM
bill h
On mine, the axle is pulled out by hand after removing the end cap. After the end cap is off, you can remove the hub nuts with a hammer and a drift, but you need a special spanner to properly torque it on assembly. I will get the number tomorrow, after we have rested up from a trip. I matched it up at the auto parts store. It is for a Ford, supposedly, but truck manufacturers bought axles all over the place.

Consider having the rotors turned while you have it apart.
07-25-2004, 03:35 PM
Dennis
Thanks Bill I tore into the axle the other day. I went to the local truck repair guy and he was real helpful. He loaned me the correct socket to remove the nuts. I check the rotor and it was in such bad shape that I ordered a new one. I also had to replace the outer bearing. I ordered new calipers for both sides. It was a learning experience.
07-25-2004, 03:39 PM
bill h
The tool is a Performance Tools W1270. I got it at Pep Boys.

The seal is NAPA NOS31870 or Chicago Rawhide 31870.

Torque to 50 ft lbs while rotating drum, then back off until loose.
07-25-2004, 03:43 PM
bill h
Dennis, glad to see you got it fixed.

BTW, if you had a new rotor and they used the old studs, be sure to torque the nuts the first few trips. Mine took several trips to settle in.