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barth 77 awning
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posted
just got out my awning out (fold up type like a tarp)..i guess it was the original awning in 1977..anyway it attaches to the side of the barth by feeding it through this slit on the side of the barth..this was real hard and took a step ladder to do it..it also has a small cloth rope used to pull it along...should it be this hard to put on and off...or was it put on and somehow stored on top rolled up (while driving)..thanks roy

------------------
"The Hawk"
Celebrating 40 yrs of being a professional musician!!

1977 454 p30 21'

[This message has been edited by hawkeye (edited April 19, 2004).]
 
Posts: 30 | Location: alto pass, Illinois,usa | Member Since: 03-16-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
First Month Member
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
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I have had those awnings on older RVs. They were aftermarket. They are not unique to Barth, though. Mine had fringe on the edges.

I did it from the ground. I used a broom handle with a nail in one end which engaged a grommet at the starting end. I had my wife pull the rope as I guided it as it fed in to the channel. A long pull rope is good as the angle is better, closer to parallel. A little pulley wheel at the front is even better. I kept the channel clean with a shotgun bore brush and lubed it with silicone spray. I rubbed a candle on the roped edge of the tarp for a little more lubing. The channel must be free of dents and sharp edges.
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 12/12
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Bill's right about pulling it through with a guide rope as close to parallel as you can get......I had the same set-up on a previous coach......

You can get aluminum fairleads at most aircraft supply houses...they're small cable guides, kinda like an 3/4" eyelet with the top third cut out, and have two mounting tabs with holes for pop-riveting in-place.....mount it in-line with the track at the end. Then, it's a simple matter of tossing the rope up to about roof level and it will slide down the side and catch in the fairlead.....hook one end to the awning that has been set in-place and pull..........

Bill's lube suggestions also make the whole operation work better too......
 
Posts: 1266 | Location: Frederick, Maryland | Member Since: 09-12-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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thanks for the ideas..i had thought about putting a small pulley on one end to pull with...thanks again...roy

------------------
"The Hawk"
Celebrating 40 yrs of being a professional musician!!

1977 454 p30 21'
 
Posts: 30 | Location: alto pass, Illinois,usa | Member Since: 03-16-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
She who must be obeyed
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"5+ Years of Active Membership"
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quote:
Originally posted by bill h:
I kept the channel clean with a shotgun bore brush and lubed it with silicone spray.

The channel must be free of dents and sharp edges.


I love the bore brush idea, I'll use it on the boat, thanks.

For sail boat head sails that use a very simular set up there is a fairlead, looks like the letter "V" often made of aluminum that can be connected with a short line that will help keep things lined up for the feed in process.

I prefer the teflon based sprays for this sort of thing. Silicone is OK, just thatthe teflon spray works better for me.
 
Posts: 282 | Location: Studio City, California | Member Since: 02-07-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Tim, you're probably right on the Teflon. My experience was so long ago I don't think they had Teflon spray then.

BTW, be sure not to breathe ANY Teflon mist. It is a potential carcinogen if inhaled.
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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bill...thanks for the silicone idea...it worked great!! still required two people...will get a pulley to use when i am setting up by myself...thanks again...roy

------------------
"The Hawk"
Celebrating 40 yrs of being a professional musician!!

1977 454 p30 21'
 
Posts: 30 | Location: alto pass, Illinois,usa | Member Since: 03-16-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Registered: 16 March 2004

bill h Posted 20 April 2004 12:03 AM

I've got an old 21foot falkner awning, that appears to be OK (78 barth) but will not extend.
I've raised the ends, and pulled the awning away from the RV about 4 inches, but it will not roll out. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Glen


78 Barth Owner
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Atlanta, GA | Member Since: 05-22-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Old Man and No Barth
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Sounds like there may be a lock of some kind. Look around for any strange looking levers or protuberances that don't perfectly line up with the roller tube, & wiggle them.
 
Posts: 1421 | Location: Upper Left Corner | Member Since: 10-28-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
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IS there any kind of lever on either end that may need a pull, ala AE 8500 series? I have a steel shaft with a 90% bend to hook the little lever at the front [right] side of the rollup tube and pull it down, putting the ratchet mechanism in the roll out position. There also may be a latch that was overlooked, or a screw lock not loosened, or an alignment problem that won't allow the framework to seperate and extend. Maybe getting up on top and looking down will reveal a problem not visible from the ground. This is how I found that the awning rope had slid back a tad in the channel and wouldn't allow the awning to roll up properly.


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3480 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I've checked the entire area around the drum and there are no locks. But the drum is frozen.

I am preparing to remove the drum and unroll the awning and look at the drum mechanism. I suspect the bearings in the drum are rusted.

Can you get parts for these, or is it an easier propisition to replace the entire unit?

Thanks,
Glen


78 Barth Owner
 
Posts: 4 | Location: Atlanta, GA | Member Since: 05-22-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Old Man and No Barth
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WATCH OUT WHEN YOU REMOVE THAT DRUM!!! The spring is probably under heavy tension. Once the latch is released that keeps it from unrolling, there's enough energy to take the end of your finger off.

Didn't happen to me, but I watched it happen to a friend.

As to repair or replacement. If the awning is original, you're probably better off to replace. I've been RV-ing a long time, & I certainly don't know everything, but I only have a vague recollection of Faulkner products. That must be a really old one.
 
Posts: 1421 | Location: Upper Left Corner | Member Since: 10-28-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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From: http://www.marksrv.com/awning_model_numbers.htm

Faulkner Awnings
There are as far as we know 3 Faulkner models, standard/deluxe mid 80's and older. most easily identified by the "geared" plastic end cap at the front of the awning and the hooked upper mounting brackets.

Faulkner Royale, most easily identified by the handle on the face of the main arm.

Arms for the 2 above models are no longer available. Due to differences in how they operate current parts are not considered backward compatible.

Likewise fabric roller tube assemblies and their parts are no longer available, with the exception of replacement fabrics (not oem).

Ultra series
Includes: Ultra, Ultramax, Coleman Faulkner Ultra
Ultra series are most easily identified by the small latching lever on the right hand end of the awning.

Ultra series hardware model #'s consist of 2 letters and 1 #. Current #'s include UH-5, UH-7, CH-5, CH-7, BW-5, BW-7.

UH = gray or anodized,
CH = cream,
BW = polar white,
5 = standard - 63" to 73" mounting distance,
7 = tall - 74" to 86" mounting distance.

See the notes on our Faulkner parts page concerning changes.


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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