Hi Everyone,
Has anyone removed and replaced the machine screws attaching the aluminum ladder from the aluminum stand-off supports riveted to the body while the ladder was in place? The screws attaching ours are getting pretty corroded and I would like to replace them with stainless. I think it’s only a cosmetic concern now but like the old commercial used to say rust never sleeps.
Thanks,
Wally

Wally,

Saturate them with penetrating oil for a few days, then work them out a little, then back, then out a little more, then back. Repeat this until the screw is extracted. A danger is that the screw snaps off or the head rounds off and then you are in a real bind.

If it were me (which obviously it wasn't in this case) I would attempt to remove a screw or two and if it looked too dangerous, I'd just leave well enough alone. Even rusty, they may last a lifetime and even with stainless screws, you'll incur galvanic corrosion with the aluminum ladder.

Corey,

They're not corroded enough to be a structural issue and will last for years as they are. I may try your suggestion but am fairly nervous about making a mostly cosmetic concern into a bigger functional problem.

I've got a couple of loose rivets on one of the upper supports that I'll need to replace and seal as soon as she comes back into the sunlight this spring and will look at the screw heads to see how they look then.

Thanks,
Wally

quote:

or the head rounds off and then you are in a real bind.

If you have access to a small rotary tool (Dremel et al), you can use a
small abrasive wafer disk to slightly deepen the head slots for a better grab.
That, plus an overnight soak with PB Blaster, has always worked for me.....

SS hardware does not stop electrolysis w/ aluminum, but really slows up the process.
Unlike plated/coated screws in a metal-to-metal friction fit, SS doesn't have its
protective surface scratched off or compromised during the fit-up process.

quote:

They're not corroded enough to be a structural issue and will last for years as they are. I may try your suggestion but am fairly nervous about making a mostly cosmetic concern into a bigger functional problem.

I've got a couple of loose rivets on one of the upper supports that I'll need to replace and seal as soon as she comes back into the sunlight this spring and will look at the screw heads to see how they look then.

One thing you gotta love about the rivets is how easy they are to extract, replace and match metallurgicaly. Way back when I had my MCI I invested in a good manual rivet gun and a shaver for shave-head rivets. I've used that thing a thousand times since. I prefer the shave-head rivets that are gasketed to insure a great seal.

I highly recommend you add this equipment to your tool box and stay away from the standard rivets that leave a hole into your insides.

Here's what I'm talking about. The shaver fits on any drill.
http://www.bylerrivet.com/prod....aspx?cat=113&pid=34

Those are fantastic... like a molley screw rivet.

Thanks Corey,

I saw that you had used some shave-head rivets on the Barth but didn't know what they were or how they were installed. Do the diameters they offer 5/32, 3/16, 1/4 take care of the sizes the Barth needs and did you buy from this company or were you able to find the rivets and tools locally? A single length rivet that can join materials of varying thickness, has a little tolerance for out of round/dimension holes, can be gasketed and doesn't have a hole in its head seems like a winner.

I have a couple pop rivet tools. Do the shave-head rivets need a special pulling tool. I'm going to get a shaver and some rivets but will need to check on what diameter/s the Barth needs.

As most of the old rivets are blind is there typically room for the old rivet to drop into the wall cavity once the head is removed?

Very helpful.

Thanks,
Wally

I never needed to replace any of the factory buck rivets and would never expect you to unless collision damaged as they are very strong.

I usually don't worry about matching the existing rivets exactly and drill a new hole to accommodate the rivet I'm replacing with.

The one caution I'll give when installing rivets is to look at how the rivet expands (some have three or four legs that collapse, others mushroom) and make sure that obstructions on the interior of the riveted area don't impede the rivet's action collapsing. I've found that after a while I get a "feel" for a rivet hitting an obstruction and can often spin it a little to get a better alignment.

I would imagine your rivet guns will work as long as they have the correct tip to match the rivet post.

Hi Lee,

Thanks for the tip on the rusty screws. Have dremel and disks and will grind. Have you removed screws from your ladder. One of my concerns was not knowing how the ladder was actually assembled, the supports attached and what the heck the screw is threaded into. Is there a captive steel nut on the end of the support? It'd be a serious bummer to sucessfully get a rusty screw out only to have the nut fall into the support thats riveted to the body.

Wally

Thanks Corey,
Very helpful.
Wally

I don't know if you searched here or not, but just in case, HERE is a link to an earlier post on my ladder project.

Another alternative is to consider whether or not you really need a ladder on the back. Not having a ladder back there would allow an awning on the rear window, too. I carry a telescopic collapsible ladder, which lets me get up anywhere. It is far handier than just a rear ladder.

quote:

Not having a ladder back there would allow an awning on the rear window, too.

Step 1 - remove ladder,
Step 2 - install rear window,
Step 3.................

quote:

Originally posted by Moonbeam-Express:

quote:

Not having a ladder back there would allow an awning on the rear window, too.

Step 1 - remove ladder,
Step 2 - install rear window,
Step 3.................

LOL

Yeah, I left an opportunity there, didn't I?

If we ever buy a coach without a rear window, out comes the can opener................

We almost always camp in the most beautiful places, and absolutely love sitting in the living room and admiring the view in all four directions, both through the glass itself and the Fresnel. Since we usually point east, sunsets are enjoyed twice as much, that way.

That, of course, also rules out side aisle coaches.

Raytek showed as low as 10 deg outside this morning. 34 inside.

Hadn't thought of a rear picture window. Interesting opportunity but probably better for someone with deep pockets or some automotive fabrication skills. Though I do have a really nice sawzall and duct tape can do amazing things.

Bill, thanks for the link to your ladder project. If ours is put together the same way, my being able to just remove and replace the screws seems a tad optimistic and a good way to slip into another "ladder project".

We'd probably be better off just treating and painting the exposed rusty screw heads, sealing the junctures as best we can and saving up for a new ladder sometime down the pike. I'll look at it in the spring after I've taken care of the things I know need attention.

Thanks,
Wally