Got sidetracked getting Dad's Barth (1927 38 ft Matthews cabin cruiser) ready for launch...

Today I plumbed in the remaining vacuum lines (power brake for tag axle, vacuum modulator on trans, and vacuum gauge)

Swapped the 3 port tank selector valve for the 6 port valve, reconnected the fuel return lines. Replaced the inline fuel pump with the new one.

Fuel system is now ready... pump maintains steady 12 psi, return lines OK and no leaks.

Once I swap the distributor, I will remount the throttle cables and run the wiring harness. I will have pictures soon.

Last year at this time I just finished the crankshaft job...

Heading for Canada on Thursday to fish and dodge the moose... see you in a week.

quote:

Originally posted by Steve VW:
(1927 38 ft Matthews cabin cruiser)

A picture or two would be nice.

OK a little thread drift won't hurt.

I didn't take pictures of the bottom work last weekend. Here are a couple from Isle Royale 2 years ago. ("Dad's Barth") Also the 63 Carver





The bottom looked good again this year, minor work and painting mostly.

Wow, that's beautiful. How long has it been in your family? 1926 really? Gosh, I didn't know a boat could still be sound after that many years. How many does it sleep?
Jim

boy does that bring back memories I worked on a few of them in my time, I worked in a marina from 1974 until 1999 saw plenty of wood boats did plenty of bottoms when you could buy real bottom paint!!!

beautiful!

My Dad bought the Matthews in 1963. (I was 10 yrs old.) He paid $1000 dollars for it, about what the old diesel was worth. It had been out of the water for 7 years, so dried out you could see through many of the seams.

We spent 2 summers before we launched it. Recaulked all the seams (about 1/4 mile in all!) I spent a whole summer crawling around under the floorboards scraping goo from the bilge.

Repowered in 1974 with a new GM 371, it has around 3,000 hrs on it now. Many years and projects later it is now in excellent condition. The old mahogany hull has proved its merit for durability and rot resistance.

That beautiful narrow wooden hull is an exceptional sea boat. (I've seen 15 ft waves in that thing... pitch-poled it over the top one time, had 2 ft of water over the decks, thought sure the windshield would break. One of the few times we backed down a bit...)

Sleeps 4 in bunks, cruise at 9 knots about 3.5 gallons/hr, slow to 7 only about 2.5 gph. Tanks hold 225 gallons. (Lake Superior is a BIG lake with few fuel stops!)

This was our first RV, I guess that's why I like working on old stuff that was well made. Now that Dad is in his 80's I'm getting more involved with maintenance again lately.

This year is our 50th year! I have every intention of celebrating its 100th birthday in 2027.

Link to Matthews history
http://ohperry341.freemason.co...20Boat%20Company.pdf

Now back to the important work.. Barth fuel injection!

Vacuum lines are (almost) done. Connected PCV and vacuum gauge to ports in the front of the TBI.

Installed brass fittings in the manifold to reconnect the tag axle vacuum line and the transmission modulator line. A little tight with the fuel return line but not too bad. The last coiled hose goes to the MAP sensor.



Distributor swap next, then throttle cables, then wiring harness!

Leaving for the Black Hills GTG on June 15th, got to be ready!

http://i687.photobucket.com/al...pload/1368813164.jpg

Hi SteveVW,
I'd like to make a suggestion about your header flange bolts. Use longer bolts, and then reattach your lock washer and nut. And then install another lock washer and nut, for redundancy. For the first lock washer to work, you are relying on the dimensional stability of all parts around the flange area. I'd found that to be an unrealistic expectation.

happy motoring!
Matt

quote:

Originally posted by BarthBluesmobile:
http://i687.photobucket.com/al...pload/1368813164.jpg

For the first lock washer to work, you are relying on the dimensional stability of all parts around the flange area. I'd found that to be an unrealistic expectation.

Yup. Exhaust things move around a lot, especially in vehicles with high torque loads.

For that kind of connection, I use springs under the nuts and double nuts over the springs. I get the springs at NAPA. No idea what number or vehicle. That allows the engine to move in its mounts without much twisting force on the header tubes.

Thanks for the advice... However, the bolts I removed were identical and had been there for 10 years...

Evidently the headers and pipes move together and the hangers allow enough play.

I'll watch them as soon as I get the rest done. I have used springs in the past when things were moving around.

Things are moving along. Installed the coolant temp sensor, MAP sensor and swapped in the new distributor.

Started installing the wiring harness. Everything on the engine is hooked up except the O2 sensor. Harness snaps into the distributor, MAP sensor, and temp sensor. Three connectors on the TBI: injectors, throttle position sensor and idle control solenoid.



The MAP sensor is on the left side valve cover. The plug in front of it is for the O2 sensor, this was the only part of the harness which is too short. I will have to extend it about 3 feet.

The distributor and plug wires are all connected.
The wires at the front of the engine are for the main power (red) and fuel pump (pink), last one goes to a starter wire for power while cranking.

The control module will be on top of the doghouse, under the dash. Wires are for the "check engine" light and ignition feed. I still need to cut the hole to feed the wires through.



The air filter requires a 1 inch riser to clear the throttle arm and distributor, however no problems with clearance under the doghouse.

Last project will be remounting the throttle and cruise cables. Should be able to fire up tomorrow!

Yeehaw! The fuel injected 454 86Barth roars!
I extended the 3 wire O2 sensor cable about 3 ft. I installed the harness and the O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe.

I cut a hole through the top of the doghouse, ran the harness through. Plugged the harness into the ECM, hooked up check engine light, connected power leads and ground.

Engine cranked for about 3-4 seconds, fired right up!

Idle slowed down when warm, runs great. Still have to set the timing (eyeballed it when changing the distributor) and hook up throttle cables.

So far I am very pleased! I'll try to road test tomorrow.

Great!

Keep us posted.

Finished the install. Throttle cables are connected to the new bracket.



My eyeball timing on the distributor was 1 degree off... I'm just not as good as I once was...



Air cleaner completes the engine. Still have to install the right side heat shield.

Now for the road test!