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CABIN FEVER A 17 foot Barth, Used to be (Well we wanted a queen bed)

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01-15-2013, 06:46 PM
dustyjeeper
CABIN FEVER A 17 foot Barth, Used to be (Well we wanted a queen bed)




Skin is on. Tomorrow try to put on the corners.


1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever
1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center
01-15-2013, 08:35 PM
Tonka
Dusty,

This is awesome! Kinda like a Barth "Smart Car". Big Grin Did you take any close ups of the frame attachments and did you use buck rivets on the skin? I can hardly wait to see it polished. Seriously cool work.

Wally
01-16-2013, 10:12 AM
dustyjeeper
I'm using pop rivits for everything. I'd need another persons help to use buck rivits.



On this barth the 2" tubing is on top of the GM frame and bolted down every 4". There is no welded of supports to the GM frame. I too thought about lowering this one the 2" while I had it apart. The flex on the frame would eventually break those welds. Angle iron welded to the supports-then bolted to the frame would be much better.


1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever
1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center
01-16-2013, 02:18 PM
dustyjeeper
Shopping at Habitat for Humanity today I came across the cabinet doors for Cabin Fever . $2 a piece



Another guy upgrading his rv sold these.



The passenger seat has a powered foot rest. The jack knife sofa has a small bed.


1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever
1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center
01-16-2013, 06:42 PM
MichaelR
Are you familiar with Cherry Max Rivets? They are approved for and used quite extensively in the aircraft industry,(they are pulled rivets). A little pricey, but far superior in my opinion to the majority of pop rivets available to the consumer. Have used them on various projects over the years during my A&P career. If you decide to give them a try, make sure to use the appropriate sized rivet for the material thickness, and the appropriately sized drill bit for the rivet diameter. Might want to invest in some "Clecos",(not sure if that's the correct spelling), as well which are used to hold your metal in place as you are riveting the piece.
01-17-2013, 07:42 PM
dustyjeeper
Thanks for the tip on the rivits. My next Barth project I'll try them out.



Got the diamond plate on the corners. Still need to finish the top. Tried twice to make those little corner pieces at the top. Maybe tomorrow I'll figure it out.


1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever
1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center
01-18-2013, 06:00 PM
dustyjeeper


Finally got those corners after 5 tries.





Finally starting to look like an RV again.


1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever
1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center
01-18-2013, 06:24 PM
RainCatcher
Great work! And the time you do it in is amazing, confusion You must buy Red Bull by the case or go through two or three pots of coffee a day!


"Keep On Truckin"
94 30' Breakaway #3866
5.9 cummins on spartan chassis
01-18-2013, 06:43 PM
Steve VW
Nice job on those corners.. wow! (English wheel?... lead shot/rubber hammer and sand bag?)

Your work is amazing. I would love to watch and learn how you did some of of that. (reminds me of an old sign at the local gas station, "LABOR RATES: $10/hr, $20/hr if you watch, $30/hr if you help!")

Great project. Superman


9708-M0037-37MM-01
"98" Monarch 37
Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison
Cummins 8.3 325+ hp
01-18-2013, 08:20 PM
dustyjeeper
Thanks I wish I had an english wheel. I heated up the diamond plate with my rose bud. Put it length way on a post and pushed. The top compound corners were started with a hammer and a piece of carpet. Then finished with a hammer on my anvil.
I really would like some more tools. mechanic


1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever
1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center
01-18-2013, 10:25 PM
Mary Ray
I love it when all the small things fall together and make a project like this, can't wait to see the finished item. Big Grin


Mary

Don't mess with us old folks, we don't get old by being stupid!
1968 Barth trailer, 1975 Barth Motorhome and 1985 Barth Motorhome

01-21-2013, 02:30 PM
dustyjeeper

Bumper sits 4-1/2" closer than before.


Cur 4" off with sawzaw, used a grinder up to line, then filed to finish.


Put bumper back on, draw line for radius.


Test fit again


Much better. I did stand on the middle of this bumper when it was on the floor to straighten it out. This bumpers are very soft. DONT JUMP ON THEM. confusion


1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever
1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center
01-21-2013, 07:01 PM
Sloop John B
Way to go, now we want to see your mud flap to protect your toad. Thumbs Up cheers All who wander are not lost.


JKB

88 28' Regal 454
Blue/Silver metalflake
01-21-2013, 08:04 PM
dustyjeeper
quote:
Originally posted by Sloop John B:
Way to go, now we want to see your mud flap to protect your toad


That brings up a good point. Most of the rust damage under this Barth was from the missing mud flaps. The missing front ones allowed mud to be thrown on the lower body panel were it turns under. Keep that mud off the square tubing and aluminum. I will be putting ALL mud flaps on this Barth.


1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever
1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center
01-21-2013, 08:24 PM
Sloop John B
Do the aluminum bumpers need steel brace in back? Mine are chrome plated and holding up well.


JKB

88 28' Regal 454
Blue/Silver metalflake