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So we are remodeling this Barth that was given to us. It has so many bolts going through the body & roof that used to hold shelves etc. My husband will be cutting a lot of bolts this weekend as they are all rusted up but would like to know what we can use to seal up the holes? Right now we have a tarp over it. We'd like to do it right if we can.
Shannon & Ken
Barth used aluminum pop rivets with steel mandrels. The steel rusted away leaving holes. If you can measure the holes with drills and get an average size you can purchase aluminum closed end pop rivets with aluminum mandrels. Estimate the thickness of the metals, usually about 1/4” and get rivets with a grip range about 1 &1/2 Times the total thickness. Drill out the holes carefully and then install the new rivets. You may need several diameter sizes. Once finished clean the surface and mop the roof fully to seal it completely with one of the elastomeric sealers. Nick Cagle has a write up that shows his work. Make sure all the ac units, fans and skylights are removed and all holes closed up. With new adhesive and sealants I see no reason to mount anything with screws again. 3M 5200 will hold the skylights, horns, and vents. For the lights I used threaded inserts made of aluminum and machine screws with just a dab of white elastomeric sealant. No need to put the sealant around the rubber gasket, it will only leak at the wires and screws. Do not use silicone anywhere - it will not seal the Aluminum.
1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
Who ever put bolts through the walls and ceiling should be slapped HARD, and plain steel bolts no less. Guaranteed leaks and rust. What an engineering nightmare. Way to wreck the integrity of a well made coach.
If the holes are small enoough, use rivets as Tom suggests. If the holes are bigger I guess I would use round head stainless bolts and washers to fill the holes, but only through the outer skin. It looked like yours went through the interior luan wall, which is not strong enough to hold much. Normally interior items were secured by screwing into the ribs...
Jim and Tere did a nice roof seal writeup also.
Good luck, keep us posted.
Have Barth, will travel.
86 Regal SE 33 Tag axle--"98" Monarch 37
Chev P3(7) 454TBI--------Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison
400 hp fuel injected-------Cummins 8.3 300 hp
Formally known as "Humbojb"
I second the "Don't use silicone anywhere...". Don't know of any application on exterior of barth where you should use silicone. I have tested it in different applications & materials before applying & suggest you do the same only to find that it doesn't stick to a lot of things. Winnebago does make a roof seam sealer made with silicone that actually works well. If I can find the part number I'll pass it on. However for Barth Napa makes a product for repairing semi trailer seams. It is paintable, brushes on with a stiff brush, dries fast. It is made by martin senour 4200 brushable seam sealer. If you go to the tutorial I did on the roof you will see what the gray looks like before applying new. I tried to remove old sealer but to no avail. Ended up coating over it (I figured it had been there doing it's job for many years already & I did not want to grind it off as some have done. I then used dicor self leveling or non self leveling depending on the locationover that to make it look nicer). I taped off the perimeter of the coach in a 5" swath to keep it neat & tidy. Did the same anywhere I found it plus some I didn't. Another thought find some aluminum sheets, cut to size to cover holes, use seam sealer i mentioned under edges, maybe riveting or just covering with the gray seam sealer around top, then dicor then anvil all over
. It really works well.
Just thinking out loud.
I patched some holes on mine with plastic fenderwall or sheetmetal plugs, allowed me to paint 'em to match.
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