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Bustle door
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Picture of Crazyshakespeare13
posted
Probably a long shot but I'm looking to replace the bustle door on my 75(or new replacement) that isn't going to break the bank. I've seen several ones that might work but hundreds of dollars plus shipping. Approximately 48x20....just seeing what's out there. Thanks!
 
Posts: 57 | Location: Ft. Worth | Member Since: 01-02-2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 12/10
Picture of ccctimtation
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Find a local sheet metal shop, cut, shape add piano hinges. Hammer to fit, paint to cover could be under $300.


Part 1: How do you fold a fitted sheet?
Part 2: Where do you look for socks if you don't have a fitted sheet in the dryer?
 
Posts: 790 | Location: St. Charles, MO, USA | Member Since: 10-09-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/18
Picture of Dana
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On my 72 mine had been kicked in. The frame was in pretty good condition (notice I didn't say great). I drilled all the rivets out and took home to rebuild. The aluminum was paper thin on both inside and outside. The stiffener between the aluminum skins was a regular sheet of regular old cardboard. confusion A piece of cardboard? I rebuilt using a heavier gauge aluminum sheet.

Thus I didn't need anything to stiffen it. My bustle had no insulation so it is just an uninsulated metal box. The generator had been removed and its void was opened to the bustle. It was not a hard rebuild. I was able to reuse the latch, hinge and the hold open brace.

Don't know if this helps


Dana & Lynn
1996 38ft Monarch front entry
Spartan Mountain Master Chassis
Cummins 8.3
Allison MD-3060 6 speed
22.5 11R
Cummins Factory Exhaust Brake
Midnight Star

1994 34ft Side Entry Aristocrat
Christened - DBarth
Spartan Chassis
6BTA 5.9L 230hp Cummins
Allison MD-3060 6 speed
15040S Eaton rear
Banks PowerPack brings HP 268
PacBrake
ProSine 2.5 Watt Inverter/Charger
Build Number#3895

1972 22ft
Christened Camp Barth
No motor, no tranny, no running water
Electric 110 and 12 volt intact and running
Still mobile as a toad with newer brakes, tires and lights
Has Original Fridgeking Air conditioner so far
 
Posts: 698 | Location: Waseca, Minnesota | Member Since: 12-09-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Crazyshakespeare13
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Thanks for the advice. I do have some experience reskining a couple of the doors. Unfortunately the PO obviously had an issue with it at one point and did an absolutely horrible repair. We're talking L bracket, rivets and screw through the exterior frame, U channel and trim. Not only does this look horrible but disintegrated the core and pitted in the middle on both sides. So, at this point I'm looking to replace. If all else fails, and I can find the channel and most important the j channel that makes up the hinge I will build one. I found a door I think i could make work at RV parts nation.com for $59 but they are over charging on the shipping at almost $250.
 
Posts: 57 | Location: Ft. Worth | Member Since: 01-02-2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
Picture of Tom  and Julie
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Call Whiting door company in New York State. They make the doors for truck trailers out of honeycomb aluminum. Five years ago I replaced every luggage door (11 doors) on my Regency for under $400, including shipping. I reused all the framing and hinges from old rotted doors. You will need to weld the frames to the door panels.


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1401 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Crazyshakespeare13
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Do you remember what model door you used? Also, when you say you welded the frame to the door panels...what exactly do you mean or do you have pics? Thanks for the advice.
 
Posts: 57 | Location: Ft. Worth | Member Since: 01-02-2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/11
Picture of Tom  and Julie
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The frames on your doors are welded at each corner. I used a Dremel to cut the corner ends at each top rail. Then the Barth rotted luan and deteriorated aluminum fell out. I measured each aluminum face and gave them to Whiting. Because they are small compared to the doors they normally make they had drops available. I chose the same thickness as the original with aluminum honeycomb for strength and insulation. When they arrived I slipped them into their door frames and tig welded the joints I earlier had cut. Then I reattached the piano hinge and drilled out the lock hole. Added each one and reinstalled then had them painted to match the coach. I polished the inside to make them pretty, but that is not a necessity. I did put polyurethane caulk inside the channel frame as I built them so water could not get in.


1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof &
1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny
 
Posts: 1401 | Location: Houston Texas | Member Since: 12-19-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Crazyshakespeare13
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Thakid for the detailed explanation....i think I will try to contact them tomorrow.
 
Posts: 57 | Location: Ft. Worth | Member Since: 01-02-2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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