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Would this be an appropriate place to start a discussion and collection of blueprints? I didn't find a topic of a collective nature.
One curiosity, especially with Milford coming up, is the name of employee that did the drawing.

Studying a blueprint is a skill I am trained in and I am well pleased that it has been helpful.
But, questions and contradictions will occur.

For example, I was trying to figure out what a switch was operating. Nothing turned on. It is a 120v style switch with a twin in a single size cover, next to the entry door, above the step switch (also 120v style switch by itself). The twin operates ceiling lights in the kitchen. I am also looking for a phantom chassis battery drain.

My point is, studying the blueprint shows me that location is marked and specially noted it is an optional burglar alarm location and notes other remote switches including panic switch in overhead cabinet in bedroom. The step switch is not indicated on the blueprint.
More questions, more troubleshooting but I wanted to know if there was interest in discussing more blueprint issues.
I have pics of mine on photobucket, I can post here if it's worth starting off.
 
Posts: 97 | Location: NW IN | Member Since: 09-22-2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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This pic shows them. The twin switches above are indicated on blueprint as patio lights. One is shown as located on the outside of drivers side bedroom wall, the other is indicated by a symbol detached from coach with an arrow pointing to another, unidentified symbol, next to another symbol used for burglar alarm, at the location where patio light is next to entry door. The unidentified symbol looks like it is a colored in version of the patio light, like it's included. I will edit and upload a better pic of blueprint.
For now, no sign of any alarm, patio lights and handle light don't work, and not aware of where handle light is switched unless it is with the step switch, which is also 12v, I believe.
Are these switches wired off of chassis battery or coach? My other coach will pull step in when ignition is turned on, the Barth stays out.

Like they say, "Back to the drawing board" (pun intended) ROTFLMAO
 
Posts: 97 | Location: NW IN | Member Since: 09-22-2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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As we know all Barths are made/wired different.

In your photo it shows two sets of switches, one above the door and a set next to the door.

My Barth does not have the set above the door but has the same set next to the door.

The ones next to the door, on mine, are as follows:
Top switch- outside light and handle light.
Middle switch- isle/hallway lights.
Bottom switch- locks down the outside steps, keeping them from going up/down everytime the door is opened/closed.
 
Posts: 435 | Location: Port Charlotte Florida USA | Member Since: 06-08-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Progress.
The 2 switches over the door are now operating new bulbs and repaired lenses for the 2 patio lights.
The single switch at the bottom is for the step and works as described. The mystery/burglar alarm switch is now operating the light in entry handle !!!
I finally measured amp draw on chassis battery, It was .15. (See my post on battery drain for questions about the 12v circuit breakers and battery isolation)Fuse hunting is next.
With pos cable disconnected, the monitor panel and 12v lighting are still working, so this eliminates them as source of chassis draw.

Keeping with this topic, I will soon post another example or question from the print.
I've heard it said: If you want to solve a problem, find the bigger one. Smiler
 
Posts: 97 | Location: NW IN | Member Since: 09-22-2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My Blueprint


 
Posts: 97 | Location: NW IN | Member Since: 09-22-2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The next question I have is about KOOL-Matic. I was troubleshooting thermostats and had a mystery with the one in the kitchen. It was screwed to the wall but the wires were sticking out of a hole above it. This tstat is different than the other two and on it it says Kool-Matic. The print shows the location to be for furnace B, under the frig.I assumed the wire would run to that furnace.
I studied the print and found it has a symbol listed as K.O.M. (Optional). In the center of Kit ceiling is the symbol for roof vent and light. Next to that it says Opt. KOM. Apparently, it would be a thermostatic exhaust fan.
That fan has a rotary switch in the center, with no knob. It is difficult to grip by hand and seemed to resist turning. From initial inspection at purchase, I recall it having 3 positions and hearing a fan run on 3rd position and very slow or couldn't hear on 2nd position and apparently nothing in 1st position, or off. Recently I tried it and it seemed to have only 2 positions and can't say I heard fan run.
Now, my question is, where is the tstat or wiring for furnace B? I need to check what functions are in that tstat and where the existing wire goes. And I need to find a knob so I can keep trying that function and find out if there is a light in there.
Does anyone have a functioning Kool-Matic?


 
Posts: 97 | Location: NW IN | Member Since: 09-22-2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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http://www.barthmobile.com/eve...1087061/m/2423917177
http://www.beamalarm.com/Docum...ool-o-matic-fan.html
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_for...ex.php?topic=32567.0

Far more modern and efficient is Fantastic Vent.
http://www.fantasticvent.com
Like the old Kool O Matic, you can have Fantastic Vent thermostatically controlled. better yet, have the remote bedside and shut the fan off when the air inside gets cool during the middle of the night, without leaving the comfort of your bed.
 
Posts: 1891 | Location: Jackson, Michigan, USA | Member Since: 04-18-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have both a Fantastic fan and a Kool-O Matic. The KOM is much more powerful than the FF. Use much more battery power too. My rear bath has the FF. Being reversible allows good airflow thru the twin bed area with the KoM exausting. With both on exhaust I get great airflow from the front open windows. If Your KoM only runs on high you might have resistor winding open. If you do a search there is a post on repair on these.


1986 31' Regal -1976 Class C
454/T400 P30 -350/T400 G30
twin cntr beds - 21' rear bath
 
Posts: 779 | Location: Dayton, Ohio | Member Since: 09-27-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Nice setup with both.
I worked on mine today. It now makes sense that the furnace B tstat has been removed, wires and holes for screws remain.
I tried the ceiling switch, got nothing, mounted tstat and switched it on, got nothing, tried ceiling switch, works well on 3 speeds. Further test shows tstat is working when on auto.
When it is on auto, is there a phantom draw?
I will assume this on the house batteries and not the chassis draw I am looking for.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by MJ56:

When it is on auto, is there a phantom draw?
I will assume this on the house batteries and not the chassis draw I am looking for.


You should not have any draw if switch is off or in auto if fan is not running. Will be powered by your house batteries.

Found this post. here


1986 31' Regal -1976 Class C
454/T400 P30 -350/T400 G30
twin cntr beds - 21' rear bath
 
Posts: 779 | Location: Dayton, Ohio | Member Since: 09-27-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks, saw that one.
A good cleaning and a new knob and I'm good to go.
 
Posts: 97 | Location: NW IN | Member Since: 09-22-2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My next blueprint question is about KRYSTAL LITE TUBE. In the open part of the page there are a few Notes. One was the burglar alarm mentioned. Another is: NOTE: 1 KRYSTAL LITE TUBE 25" long bull nose carpet type bronze anodize.
On the plan, at the location of step up to bedroom floor, it says 4" R.F. w/ krystal lite tube. No indication of switching. There is a switch for aisle lights just above this location. Other aisle lights do work.
All i see there is carpet, so I assume if this lite is there, a PO carpeted over it.
Does anyone have one of these?
 
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