Hi I'm at a loss at the moment.
1st problem. The battery charger does not work. How can I test this? There is 110 to the battery charger plug and the batteries are new and charge up when using the charger from my garage.
2nd problem. When plugged into shore power the auto line-generator switch buzzes. (sounds like an old battery charger) It does work and changes line power to generator and back.
3rd problem. While using my shops battery charger on the coach batteries and with the motor running on the Barth. I could hear a difference in alternator belt squeal on the 454. Also a week ago all 3 batteries were dead. 2 on the coach and the 1 on the chassis. I'm sure these two systems should not be tied together. Maybe a short or a bad relay. Help while I do have diagrams. As of yet I haven't figured it out.

Dusty - a couple of questions. Has the battery charger ever worked properly? Have you done any electrical work recently? What condition are the wires in? Does the charger get hot to the touch when you are plugged in to 110?.

OK, that's more than a couple.

Doug

quote:

Originally posted by dustyjeeper:

1st problem. The battery charger does not work. How can I test this?

1. Get rid of the "Charger" and wire in your garage charger. That will tell you something. Your "charger" might not really be a charger. It might just be a converter that doesn't charge much. That's how mine was. It ran the 12 volt lights, etc, but put out only a little bit of charge.

quote:

2nd problem. When plugged into shore power the auto line-generator switch buzzes. (sounds like an old battery charger) It does work and changes line power to generator and back.

Sorry, can't help. Mine is manual. I would get rid of the auto transfer switch and put in a manual transfer switch. Or two receptacles and a plug to move from one to the other. That is the simplest. I had a Southwind like that. It almost can't fail. That is what I plan on doing if my manual transfer switch starts acting up.

quote:

3rd problem. While using my shops battery charger on the coach batteries and with the motor running on the Barth. I could hear a difference in alternator belt squeal on the 454. Also a week ago all 3 batteries were dead. 2 on the coach and the 1 on the chassis. I'm sure these two systems should not be tied together.

Get rid of the isolator. Even when they work, they interfere with full charging of both coach and chassis batteries by dropping the voltage by 7/10 of a volt. Get rid of the aux start relay. Both devices tie the coach and chassis batteries together. In the rare event that you need to parallel your batteries, you can use a short jumper.

Golly, I used "get rid of" 4 times. Do I sound like a minimalist or a Luddite?

Simple is better. Also easier to fix.

I bought this a little while ago. The charger has done nothing since I have had it. I like the idea of getting rid of the automatic stuff. I didn't even realize it wasn't working until my new batteries went dead.

I agree to throw that battery charger out. I have a "Battery Tender" in my TT. All it is is a trickle charger but it keeps the batteries topped off nicely.

To answer your first question - disconnect it, plug it in and check it with a VOM. That will tell you if it has any output.

Battery Tenders are very good for batteries that sit. The battery needs to be full before sitting, though.

quote:

Originally posted by dustyjeeper:

1st problem. The battery charger does not work. How can I test this?


1. Get rid of the "Charger" and wire in your garage charger. Your "charger" might not really be a charger. It might just be a converter that doesn't charge much. That's how mine was. It ran the 12 volt lights, etc, but put out only a little bit of charge.

Not likely - based on the vintage, it's likely a single-output converter. The older dual-output converters had wimpy battery charging outputs. If replacing a dual-output converter with a charger, some simple rewiring is necessary.

I'd replace the converter, as they're designed for continuous duty; I would NOT use a charger. Even the build-to-price RV mfrs don't use a garage-type charger.

quote:

2nd problem. When plugged into shore power the auto line-generator switch buzzes. (sounds like an old battery charger) It does work and changes line power to generator and back.

If it doesn't run excessively hot, the buzzing is likely just loose coils. Dribbling thin instant set (Super Glue) into the coils can stop that.

quote:

3rd problem. While using my shops battery charger on the coach batteries and with the motor running on the Barth. I could hear a difference in alternator belt squeal on the 454. Also a week ago all 3 batteries were dead. 2 on the coach and the 1 on the chassis. I'm sure these two systems should not be tied together. Maybe a short or a bad relay. Help while I do have diagrams. As of yet I haven't figured it out.

This actually sounds like two issues:

1. Something is draining the batteries, and
2. Something is causing the house and chassis batteries to be in parallel, so they all drain.
3. Or something is draining the house batteries and something else is draining the chassis batteries

The isolator or isolator relay is the prime suspect for paralleling the batteries. If you have a solid-state isolator, it could be the cause of both issues.

Your converter could also be the culprit.

Yeah.

Dangit Rusty, yo have my respect.

Wow. Gotta start taking things apart and look at them. Thanks

K&T, thanks!

Dusty, I don't know how experienced you are with electrical, but don't try to isolate all the problems at once.

If it were I, I'd start with the converter; they don't last forever.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
This actually sounds like two issues:

1. Something is draining the batteries, and
2. Something is causing the house and chassis batteries to be in parallel, so they all drain.
3. Or something is draining the house batteries and something else is draining the chassis batteries

The isolator or isolator relay is the prime suspect for paralleling the batteries. If you have a solid-state isolator, it could be the cause of both issues.

Your converter could also be the culprit.

In total agreement with all of this. Also, you might want to check to see if your "Emergency Start, Paralleling Electromagnetic Relay" has a dual function, 3 position switch as it might accidentally be on.

Look on your dash and see if the Emergency Start Switch has 3 positions. The center position is probably off, the momentary position is for emergency starting and the other position is for paralleling all battery banks.

Some people mistakenly leave it on believing that it is off. In reality it has just bridged all batteries together and is a parasitic drain on your system as all it is doing is just energizing an electromagnetic coil.

Also note that these solenoids (Electromagnetic Relays) are not created equal. If someone replaced the paralleling, constant duty relay/solenoid with a momentary duty unit then you have another issue that needs attention too.

I would suggest a paralleling battery switch instead of an isolator or emergency start switch. While it does require effort on your part to flip it on and off, there is little chance of failure and it becomes another ritual in your pre & post trip routine.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
I would NOT use a charger. Even the build-to-price RV mfrs don't use a garage-type charger.

My rec to wire up the garage charger was meant only as a diagnostic, mainly because I have no idea what type of garage charger we are looking at.

However, I used automotive chargers for decades as my only chargers, but this depends on the type of charger and how it is used and monitored. All my trailers came with non charger and all my MHs came with converters or converter/chargers that were grossly inferior to a good automotive charger.

A battery cannot read the decal on the front of the charger. It only knows volts, amps, duration, etc. A good garage charger is better than a lot of the built-in charger/converters installed in motorhomes. Like mine, for example. Many OEM RV-specific converter/chargers will overcharge the batteries if left plugged in for any time, also.

I still use one for when my solar panels are shaded or to do a complete (weekly) finish charge on extended boondock trips. In fact, my little Vector 25 amp 1095A does a better job than my RV-specific Iota DLS75-IQ, which is a pretty good unit. The Iota and the Vector start off with a 40 amp charge on a half down battery, but the Vector maintains a higher charge current for longer than the Iota. Since it draws less current and charges faster, it saves generator fuel and noise. Also, my teeny-weenie Honda powers it with less strain than it does the Iota. I have friends who can tell when dinner is being set on the table by the sound of their Honda.

The CA and AZ desert is full of little Hondas purring away powering automotive chargers. Many snowbirds do this for 4 to 6 months straight.

My golf cart batteries lived this way for almost ten years in my Barth, and are still enjoying their second career in a friend's weekend RV, being charged solely by his automotive charger. I believe it is a Sears automatic one, made by Schumacher. It has a setting for deep cycle batteries. He got about 5 years out of his previous marine/rv 12 volter with that same charger, so it must not be too bad.

The Vector also equalizes and desulfates. I like it so much that I might buy its bigger brother, the 1093, but am not sure the little Honda would power it.

Many of my boating friends leave an automatic automotive charger on their boats for winter periods of non-use, and have done so for years with no problems. As do I.

There is a very good site called The 12 Volt Side of Life by Mark Nemeth. I have spoken with him off and on for years, both in person and by correspondence, and I have the highest regard for him and his thoughts. He is a full-timer and walks the walk. I have always found his information informative and accurate.

From the site: "Replace your converter with a modern 3 stage battery charger. These units are fully automatic and can be left plugged in continuously without damaging your batteries. They provide much higher charging current than a converter and will fully charge your batteries in short order, even on generator power. You can buy the charger and replace your existing converter with it, as it will handle all the functions of the converter and keep your batteries in shape too! If you need to replace a failing converter, don't miss the chance to get a 3 stage charger. They really are worth the money if you use your batteries a lot." That is only an outtake from the article, so click on the link for the whole story.

The site linked above is part of his larger
SITE, which is packed with good information. Of particular interest is the link at the top to technical articles. I think every RVer should print his stuff and study it now and then.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:
you might want to check to see if your "Emergency Start, Paralleling Electromagnetic Relay" has a dual function, 3 position switch as it might accidentally be on.

Look on your dash and see if the Emergency Start Switch has 3 positions. The center position is probably off, the momentary position is for emergency starting and the other position is for paralleling all battery banks.

Some people mistakenly leave it on believing that it is off. In reality it has just bridged all batteries together and is a parasitic drain on your system as all it is doing is just energizing an electromagnetic coil.

Also note that these solenoids (Electromagnetic Relays) are not created equal. If someone replaced the paralleling, constant duty relay/solenoid with a momentary duty unit then you have another issue that needs attention too.

I would suggest a paralleling battery switch instead of an isolator or emergency start switch. While it does require effort on your part to flip it on and off, there is little chance of failure and it becomes another ritual in your pre & post trip routine.

All of this is for a feature that I have used only once in my RV life, and a little jumper (baling) wire did the job to let me finish a trip with a failed alternator.

That parallel switch does look nice, though. And, it's foolproof, delivers full charging voltage (unlike an isolator) and is stone-reliable.

Upon searching further.
The previous owner had tied all batteries together.
The converter is toast.
I've separated the coach and Chassis batteries. This stopped my alternator whine. The storage disconnects work properly now. I've installed a charger. I've tightened the wiring connectors on the line/generator box. There is still noise. I'm looking for some rubber to help quiet the buzz. Well that failed. When on shore power it continues to buzz. Probably have to replace switch.