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|Official Barth Junkie|
For some time I have had problems with my instrument panel "ignition/starter" key switch. (Actually the lock in the switch) At times the key would not turn at all and only after considerable fiddling with the key, I was able to get it to work for a while.
I knew it was a GM style. In order to remove the switch from the instrument panel, one must remove the lock cylinder before removing the trim bezel. This requires a paper clip be inserted into the lock cylinder, then rotate counter clockwise to remove the lock cylinder. With considerable difficulty I was finally able to get the lock to turn and come out.
The plastic shroud around the back of the switch apparently had been previously broken, so I decided to replace both switch and lock. Once removed, I found the panel switch was the same as my 86 Regal. I was able to locate several replacement suppliers. I ordered a switch from PartsGeek for $18.95 free shipping. When it arrived I was pleased to discover it was complete with switch, lock and two keys!
I was pleased to see they were still available.
I replaced it in our Breakaway a few years ago. The key has only been removed a few times since. Just leave it in and usually lock the door. BTW it was also a GM key.
'92 Barth Breakaway - 30'
5.9 Cummins (6B) 300+ HP
had a similar problem with an Oldsmobile switch, turned out to be the key was worn, used the back-up key and worked fine.
1971 24 ft Continental
|Official Barth Junkie|
I had four keys, including the original Spartan key. None of them worked.
The lock cylinder in these switches is odd. Most have the locking pins in line with the plane of the key. This GM version has a locking bar that is located on the side, perpendicular to the key. It depends on two tiny springs to keep the bar snug to the key tumblers. My springs were not working and the locking bar did not retract fully even with the key in place.
After removing the panel and switch together, I rotated the switch around and tapped it several times and I was able to get the lock to turn, barely. If you hold the cylinder with the key flat, notches to the left side, (9 o'clock) the locking bar is at the top (12 o'clock) If you tap it then, gravity may help it drop down and out of the way, possibly allowing the cylinder to turn and be removed. Once the cylinder is out, it is easy to remove the bezel and replace the switch.
Have Barth, will start easily now...
"98" Monarch 37
Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison
Cummins 8.3 300 hp
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