When I got my Barth the previous owners had there way with the wiring. I have got most of it fixed now I am down to the tank monitor panel. Does a wiring diagram exist? 1984 royale I think. The panel is black and just says barth on it. All my tank sensors just have wires sticking out of them. Is there a procedure for checking the sensors?

The tank sensors on both my 86 and the 97 coaches have been unreliable. I think they are crude float type that have a sliding float on a track in the tank and the floats hang up, esp black tank. I have not seen much info on the OEM Barth systems.

My LP sensor works but there is a gauge on the tank so it isn't really needed. Since my fresh water tank is translucent, I can see the level through the side of the tank. My toilet drops straight into the black tank so I can see the level when I flush.

Several others have upgraded to more moden systems which work pretty well, I think. Dana has a new system, maybe some others as well.

Yes I did. PO had done some upgrades to the grey and black tanks. Bigger grey and custom fiberglass black tank. Neither had any sensors. The fresh water was intermittently correct?

I replaced with a SeeLevel II 709-HP3W. It will monitor 3 tanks and propane also had switches for Water heater and water pump. I removed the old control panel and replaced with this.

If you do this conversion make sure to get the most segmented sensors you can for your size tank. The sensors are not cheap so get the correct ones when you buy. They will swap out sensors before purchase if you call them and ask. The sensors must be mounted on a vertical flat surface. The more segments the more accurate the level readings.

This is great when without hookups. Knowing what levels all the tanks and LP are by just pushing a button and knowing that is accurate. There are multiple models available. I chose what fit my needs.

I also put in USB plugs and switches for my patio lights. I have 3 amp USB plugs in the cabinet to the left. This is where I have my internal Weboost antenna to use my phone as a hotspot and charge. I have a main power that I can turn the control off also for energy conservation while Boondocking!

I think I have figured out the OEM panel now. Barth used a pretty standard way of doing it except the resistors are built into the board instead of having resistors packs in the sensor harness. There are just so many wires and they change colors between the panel and the rear of the coach. There are a couple of transistors on the panel board that are bad that keep a couple of the bulbs on dim. I will post a pic this evening of the wonderful rats nest of wires. I have a hand full that must have been extra. I considered just changing the panel out but love a challenge.

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Originally posted by Paul And Jaime:
I think I have figured out the OEM panel now. Barth used a pretty standard way of doing it except the resistors are built into the board instead of having resistors packs in the sensor harness. There are just so many wires and they change colors between the panel and the rear of the coach. There are a couple of transistors on the panel board that are bad that keep a couple of the bulbs on dim. I will post a pic this evening of the wonderful rats nest of wires. I have a hand full that must have been extra. I considered just changing the panel out but love a challenge.

The reason I switched out was internal sensors were not there on 2 of my tanks. Putting them in, no way! This system is fool/idiot proof. My wires were all pretty well marked on the topside. Those in the bay on the one tank left were then easy to figure then I didn’t need all the others.

Good luck on the scavenger hunt. That rats nest is a common occurrence.

Pic of the side of the board

Pic of the back of the board. None of the wires were hooked up behind the panel. I found them all laying down at the bottom. The wires were different colors than what was coming off the board. At the top are the switches, third one from the right is tank 1, tank 2. As you can see all the commons on the switches are tied together with orange. The bulb indicators are in the center, Third one over from the right stays lit, I know its a faultily component on the board because the only two wires on the board that was hooked up was the 12+ - . I guess I will have to recap the board, might as well since I have to take it out anyway to fix the transistor or resistor that is faulty and not sure what type of bulbs those are but will probably convert them to led. Anyway would be way easier to just buy a new panel from amazon and reuse the existing wire and sensors.