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Replacing Hydroflame Furnace Blower Motor
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/12
Picture of Nick Cagle
posted
Since I have had to replace the blower motor on both of my furnaces, I thought others might be doing the same project. After learning the steps on the first motor, the second one went much faster and easier. This is a job that can be accomplished with minimal tools and should take less than an hour to complete if the steps are followed correctly.

  • This is the furnace with the outer access door opened. Simply two screws to open the door.

  • Remove the furnace flue and the control board. Each of these are held in place with only one wing nut. The flue may be stuck and stubborn to remove but just keep pulling and wiggling until it comes free. The wing nut is the only thing holding it in place.

  • The blower motor is behind this plastic cover. The cover is held in place with 4 small 1/4" sheet metal screws. Remove the screws and hold the cover up out of your way. You can do this without disconnecting any of the wires.

  • Remove the two squirrel cage blower fans. This is done with a 1/8th in allen wrench accessed through hole in the housing on the right side and a hole in the squirrel cage on the left side. Slide the large left side squirrel cage off the shaft and remove it. If you did not remove the control board you do not have enough room to remove the left squirrel cage. Loosen the set screw in the smaller right side squirrel cage. This will not be removed from its housing. Loosen the motor clamp with a 5/16 nutdriver and slide the motor out to the left.



  • Now just reverse the above to install the new motor. Slide the new motor into position while making sure the right hand shaft goes into the small squirrel cage fan. Install the large left hand squirrel cage. Note in the picture that the new motor has pigtail wires and the old motor does not. Just connect the pigtails to your existing wires. The wires are color coded but there have been instances of the motor running backwards when connected color to color. If this happens simply reverse the connections.

  • These are the only tools needed to complete this job.(1) Straight slot screwdriver (2) 1/4" Nutdriver (3) 5/16 Nutdriver (4) 1/8 inch Allen wrench


Hope this will be helpful to someone. Good luck.

Nick
 
Posts: 1723 | Location: Harlem, GA | Member Since: 09-17-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 03/10
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Happy New Yars to YOU, Nick and Donna. Nich, how much is the motor and where did you get it? Thanks Ray


1990 Barth Regency
32RDGB1 Wide Body
3208 Cat 250 HP
Gillig Chassis
Center aisle
 
Posts: 442 | Location: Murphy, NC | Member Since: 03-01-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/12
Picture of Nick Cagle
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Ray, you can see the part number on the new motor. 33589. The original owners manual list 3589 but the additional "3" has been added in later years. I bought both motors on EBAY. First one was $86.00 and second one was $62.00. A new motor from PPL is about $120.00.

Happy New Year to you and Anne.

Nick
 
Posts: 1723 | Location: Harlem, GA | Member Since: 09-17-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 12/10
Picture of Bones
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Thank you soooooo much for posting this. I have to tear into my furnace. It worked when I bought the coach but was really noisy. Then over the summer some wasps moved in and I didn't discover them until I was winterizing. Now it fires up and runs for about a minute before it pops the circuit breaker.

It's nice to has some idea of what to expect before heading into a project.


Regal 25 built in 1989
1985 P-30 chassis
454 TH400
 
Posts: 215 | Location: Somewhere in the SW | Member Since: 03-06-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 01/12
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Thanks Nick: Front heater is working fine. Just found out today the rear heater is just blowing cold air(no heat). Not sure what to look for so any help will be welcome...............


Former owner of "THE TOY"

 
Posts: 549 | Location: North Fort Myers, Florida, USA | Member Since: 11-20-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 03/10
Picture of sky
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Here is where the motor can be got in Knoxville area for $84. Thanks Nick. Ray

33589 12 vdc motor


1990 Barth Regency
32RDGB1 Wide Body
3208 Cat 250 HP
Gillig Chassis
Center aisle
 
Posts: 442 | Location: Murphy, NC | Member Since: 03-01-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 6/12
Formally known as "Humbojb"
Picture of Jim and Tere
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Nick, would you know if my 85 Regal has the hydraflame furnace?
Jim


Jim and TereJim and Tere

1985 Regal
29' Chevy 454 P32
8411 3172 29FP3B
Gear Vendor 6 Speed Tranny
 
Posts: 2891 | Location: madisonville tn usa | Member Since: 02-19-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/12
Picture of Nick Cagle
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quote:
Originally posted by Jim and Tere:
Nick, would you know if my 85 Regal has the hydraflame furnace?
Jim
Jim, I'm going to GUESS that yours is an Atwood Hydroflame since they were used in the majority of RV's in that period. But to be sure, just open the outer access door and you should be able to see the manufactures label on the inner cover.

Nick
 
Posts: 1723 | Location: Harlem, GA | Member Since: 09-17-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/11
Picture of lenny and judy
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Nick Where is the flame in the furnace? mine won't start the gas when I have the vent open. if I put my finger over the lower half of the vent pipe it starts every time.I put some aluminum tape over the lower half for a while and it works .I brushed out the furnace with a dryer brush , blew the furnace out with a air hose cleaned the vent pipe . I took off the tape now it still wont start.any ideas?
The couch is out and being redone so this is a good time to really get into it HELP
lenny


lenny and judy
32', Regency, Cummins 8.3L, Spartan Chassis, 1992
Tag# 9112 0158 32RS 1B
 
Posts: 820 | Location: Naples Florida,g.g. | Member Since: 02-06-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 8/13
Captain Doom
Picture of Rusty
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Lenny, I think you need to pull the burner (first the flue) and clean it out. It sounds like the gas is being diverted by crud on the burner front, mud dauber nests a prime candidate.

In any event you should install the mud dauber screen.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway
MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP
Two not-spoiled Golden Retrievers (Casey and Nelson)
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Posts: 7091 | Location: Brooker, FL, USA | Member Since: 09-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com12/10
Picture of Gerald
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Jim... My 86 Regal has 3 Hydroflame furnaces..Excalibur 8500 series. Have owners manual's and trouble shooting guide. If they would be of help I could try to copy them for you.

Gerald


1986 Barth Regal SE
34 foot tag - 454 Chevy
8610 3363 34TFPOB
 
Posts: 232 | Location: Aberdeen, So. Dak. | Member Since: 09-25-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/11
Picture of lenny and judy
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thanks I will start on it today .I really do not need it but I like to have everything working,for when we do sell the motor home.
lenny


lenny and judy
32', Regency, Cummins 8.3L, Spartan Chassis, 1992
Tag# 9112 0158 32RS 1B
 
Posts: 820 | Location: Naples Florida,g.g. | Member Since: 02-06-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for posting the photos for replacing this motor. These are the best I've seen on the web.

Mine came apart almost this easy except the small combustion fan blade on the right hand side will not come off. The set screw is completely removed. There is no way to pry it off and I don't want to bend the fan.

Anyone else have this problem and get past it?

Thanks!
 
Posts: 2 | Location: Alberta, Canada | Member Since: 05-07-2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Solved my own problem. The shaft on the right needed to be cleaned up with some sandpaper and hit with some penetrating oil.

I then held the left shaft with a pair of visegrips and using a huge pair of channelocks, I grabbed the centre hub of the right hand combustion fan and wiggled and tugged for a few minutes.

The fan SLOWLY moved down and off the shaft.

The job would have been very easy if this had slid right off.
 
Posts: 2 | Location: Alberta, Canada | Member Since: 05-07-2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
"Host" of Barthmobile.com
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 9/13
Picture of Bill N.Y.
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the way I remove this type/style fan, and most shaft mounted blades, is...

...penetrating oil for about 1/2 hour - let it soak in good.
...hold the shaft and turn the blades or squirrel cage in a clockwise/counterclockwise rotation.

It is usually much easier to get it to turn that way then it is to try and pry it off down the shaft.


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    Forums    Tech Talk    Replacing Hydroflame Furnace Blower Motor

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