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General Operational Questions
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 9/09
Picture of Lance Walton
posted
I have had my Regency since June 25. I drove it from Texas to Florida and parked along side my home. Since then I have been refurbishing the interior and fixing any technical problems I have noticed. Since I have not really ran it much I have some questions. The motor and chassis manuals have many recommended procedures that I don't know if they are necessary or may even be automated. Can anyone help me out here:

How regularly should I drain the fuel-water separator?

Do the air tanks have an automatic drain as some motor homes do?

If not, where are the drains?

After a few weeks of not running is it necessary to disconnect the fuel injection pump solenoid power then crank the engine for a few seconds before reconnecting the pump and starting the engine?

Many sources state that the engine should be run at, or above, peak torque RPM. How do I find out what this RPM is? It's not in the manual.

Is the anti-freeze from Wal-Mart, etc. the correct type to use in the Cummins engine? I am referring to the brand names of course.

I'm sure I'll have more questions. I hope y'all can help.


Lance & Sue Walton
1993 38ft Regency
Cummins 6CTA8.3 300HP
Allison MD3060 Transmission
Spartan Chassis
Titusville, FL
 
Posts: 245 | Location: Titusville, FL | Member Since: 06-21-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/11
Picture of lenny and judy
posted Hide Post
go to cummins .com go to performance tips that will answer most of your questions.
lenny


lenny and judy
32', Regency, Cummins 8.3L, Spartan Chassis, 1992
Tag# 9112 0158 32RS 1B
 
Posts: 820 | Location: Naples Florida,g.g. | Member Since: 02-06-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/12
posted Hide Post
Auto drain or manual, if you want to replace them go to Napa. They have a lanyard air tank drain made by Haldex for about $15 that works well, especially if your drains are hard to access by hand.
 
Posts: 950 | Location: Left side, top to bottom and back again. :>) | Member Since: 09-08-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 8/11
Picture of billyt53
posted Hide Post
[QUOTE]Picture of Lance Walton

Posted 11-12-2009 10:47 PM
I have had my Regency since June 25. I drove it from Texas to Florida and parked along side my home. Since then I have been refurbishing the interior and fixing any technical problems I have noticed. Since I have not really ran it much I have some questions. The motor and chassis manuals have many recommended procedures that I don't know if they are necessary or may even be automated. Can anyone help me out here:

How regularly should I drain the fuel-water separator? Unless you get water in the system, do not do it.

Do the air tanks have an automatic drain as some motor homes do? Probably not. Manual valves are located on the bottom of each tank, there are three. If water is present, replace the desiccant filter/cartridge on the air drier. Before you spend a dime on the air drier, make sure it is the correct one. Many chassis were turned out with the incorrect drier. If you have a Holset E-Con compressor, make sure you have an "E-Con:" compatible drier.

If not, where are the drains? See above

After a few weeks of not running is it necessary to disconnect the fuel injection pump solenoid power then crank the engine for a few seconds before reconnecting the pump and starting the engine? No

Many sources state that the engine should be run at, or above, peak torque RPM. How do I find out what this RPM is? It's not in the manual. 1600 RPM but Spartan tended to use relatively Low Gears in their chassis which in our coach 1600 rpm is around 50-55 MPH. We travel between 65 & 75 so we are near 1900 RPM. I am considering a re-gear but our toad is 6500 lbs.

Is the anti-freeze from Wal-Mart, etc. the correct type to use in the Cummins engine? I am referring to the brand names of course.

Replace the antifreeze with a quality Ethylene/Glycol mixture of 50/50 & replace the coolant filter. Test the DCA content using a test strip available from Cummins Parts. Add as necessary. If you purchase "Cummins Compleat" coolant, it has the the proper amount of DCA included. There is a new coolant out called "Final Charge" that is completely organic and lasts six years or 650,000 miles and requires NO DCA. Complete;ly flush your system and refill with Final Charge 50/50 mixture.


Billy & Helen Thibodeaux
Owners of Billy Thibodeaux's Premiere RV, Inc. Scott, LA 70583 I-10 Exit 97
The Farm is near Duson, LA I-10 Exit 92 then N 1 mile on right
Three Full 50 Amp RV Hookups !
www.billyt.com
Data Tag: 9404-3908-36XI-2C
1994 Sovereign 36' Widebody on Spartan IC Chassis.
Powered by 8.3CTA 300 Cummins, 12 BTDC Timing, Borg Warner SV366 Turbo, K&N Motorhome Air Filter, 4" Resonator i.l.o. muffler, BD Exhaust Brake, Fleetgard "Enviroclean" CCV System (No more oil on the Toad)
Mobileye Forward Collision Avoidance/Lane Departure Warning System
MotoSAT HD Stationary Satellite, TracStar SV360 In-Motion Satellite, DirecTV HD
Apple TV, Amazon Fire TV, Radio Labs WiFi Range Extender
Bose Lifestyle V25 Home Theater
LG 32" 16x9 HD LED Living Room
Nexus 21 TV Lift
Samsung 32" HD SmarTV built into Bedroom Wall
Onan 8,000 Quiet Diesel Genset, 500 Ahr Lifeline AGM Battery Bank, 320 Watt Solar Array, Magnum MS2812 Pure Sine Wave Inverter
Toad: 2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel M&G Car Brake
 
Posts: 327 | Location: 1mile north of I-10 Exit 92, Duson, LA USA in The Heart of CAJUN COUNRTY ! ! ! | Member Since: 05-14-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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