The vertical travel of the rear is about 6 inches, the panhard bar is about 19 3/8 inches long so with that movement,(+/- 3 inches) there would be about 3/16 inch deflection from true horizontal at the top and bottom of the movement. There is play in the springs but this is all working against the rubber bushings in the spring ends and shackles.

The main problem that I see is that it is working against the weakest part of the frame. C channel frames do not like side to side movement and have little strength to resist this.

The crack is welded and the fish plate is installed so now I am looking at adding a re-enforcement channel to form a triangle to the panhard mounting location. I want to transfer some of that force to the opposite side of the frame but want to do it in a way that it will not allow flexing of the frame at the mounting spot.

I have drawn up what I think is going to work and will get material this AM. I may have to move or relocate a gas line but that is not going to be a big issue.

I did not talk with Spartan, the frame is not hardened and being almost 20 years old---I don't think I'd get much help.

Yes, I have been living under the coach for the past 2-3 weeks. With all these awkward positions I have gotten another vertigo attack (if that is what you call it) and that is not fun to try to orientate oneself to do the cleaning and welding. I plan a LONG rest after this is finished.

Man can I relate to living under the coach... It feels so good when you're done!

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:

The main problem that I see is that it is working against the weakest part of the frame. C channel frames do not like side to side movement and have little strength to resist this.

Could you make it a box section?

quote:

I am looking at adding a re-enforcement channel to form a triangle to the panhard mounting location. I want to transfer some of that force to the opposite side of the frame

I like that idea. Might be good on a Pee, if there is room.

quote:

but want to do it in a way that it will not allow flexing of the frame at the mounting spot.

At least, each mounting spot for the crossbar will have only half the force.

quote:

I have drawn up what I think is going to work and will get material this AM.

Please post pictures.

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the frame is not hardened

Um, it might be now. Or at least at the break point.

quote:

I have been living under the coach for the past 2-3 weeks. With all these awkward positions I have gotten another vertigo attack (if that is what you call it) and that is not fun to try to orientate oneself to do the cleaning and welding.

I get that. The world literally spins. Not only do I see it, I feel it, as well. The VA dr said to move slowly when in odd positions. That has been very good advice, since I live in fear of falling off a roof or having vertigo while on the motorcycle or bicycle. Spending a lot of time on roofs lately.

We are back in el lay, and it seems that a lot of the drivers have vertigo. I think driving and using a cell phone might have something to do with it.

quote:

Originally posted by Steve VW:
Man can I relate to living under the coach... It feels so good when you're done!

I do some of my best thinking when supine under a vehicle. I have to take breaks for my shoulder and vertigo, so I get to think a lot.

I have solved most of the world's problems under there. That is, if I could remember and if people would do things my way.

Speaking of living under the coach, I hadn't "done any time" since Milford and I couldn't stand it. I replaced my fuel pressure regulator and the last of the flex fuel lines to the tank selector. All new now.

I cut out a piece of my exhaust pipe and installed a second muffler in line. I have Thorley headers which connected to a single large muffler, then straight back and out the driver's side, in front of the wheels. I put the second muffler immediately behind the first. Much less "big bore roar" than before. More noise abatement to follow.

Anyway, I got some "bottom time"!

I have a new air conditioner to install and the Kool Matic is squealing, it never ends.

Can't wait to get back to working on Barth, I'm almost healed from the last time!

Ed, I'd love to see a picture of the repair weld and fish plate. Don't believe you'll have any more problems with that area of the frame.

I know what you mean about vetigo I had a bout with that about a year ago lasted maybe a couple weeks before it got slowly better. I had to move real slow getting up or down, even laying down and turning your head set it off.

There is no better way to releive stress than taking a nice nap under the Barth!

Pictures and write up are coming. I hope to have the re-enforcement done today and then all the other stuff back in tomorrow. Has been a long project and I have changed the design several times. I don't want to do this again for sure.

Finally finished the frame repair and the added re-enforcement last night. Test drive tomorrow and maybe be out resting somewhere. Will try to get write up and pictures done after or during the test time.

I have lots of pictures, most are good and also of the engine rear main seal replacement. later to post.

It's good to know (I think?) there is someone else out there who is as crazy as I am, working under their Barth.

My hat's off to you on these projects... from one tired and sore hombre to another.

Okay back under DBarth and I am having trouble identifying my rear end. Eaton I got.

According to the info the specs should be stamped into the right rear. I am assuming this means the back side of the differential which faces forward on a pusher.

I find a metal plate on the left with PT NO 306334 below that is ID NO P1443 229

There is a Eaton Stamp and below that 601223 on the center rear of the Differential gear housing.

There is nothing on the right rear housing as far as I can tell.

The Pan Hard bar is solid and has no play what so ever at this time.

I tried all and any of these numbers but don't know for sure what I have. Sprayed it all down with degreaser but I don't imagine anything is going to appear.

What have I got? I want to change the lube. There seems to be a drain hole at the bottom, another plug in the rear a 1/3 of the way up and another 2/3 of the way up the back.

Help

This is just rule-of-thumb from diffy experts I contacted:

1. Older diffies recommend 90W, which is now impossible to find. Drawing on my lube engineer experience, I go with 85W/140 synthetic.

2. When I replaced the cover on my diffy with one from Mag Hytech, they recommended raising the fluid level at least ¼" to ensure the lube flowed to the wheel bearings. Because the cover and so level check holes on a pusher are inverted, I had to make a dipstick to check levels.

This may be the reason for the three holes on yours.

3. Mag Hytech recommended Amzoil, and I used that against my better judgement (I'm unimpressed by vendors who can't post legitimate ASTM test results). Using Amzoil allowed me to spend 3 nice days with billyt53 and Helen having StaRV II's rear end repaired.

I strongly agree with Rusty about Amsoil DON"T DO IT.

I have an Eaton rear axle and withing days after the oil change to Amsoil I developed a loud whine. I have changed back to Kendall diff fluid and also have been adding Power Punch additive and it is quieting down.

Dana, you might check the front access door as on mine there is an ID plate that should tell you the model of the axles, transmission, engine gross weight etc.

Mine looks like this:


HTH

Thank Goodness, I was always suspicious of the marketing, and stayed away from Amzoil

The two stroke snowmobile geeks around here swear by Amsoil, but I've never used any of their products either because they don't back their hype with lab testing data.

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
I strongly agree with Rusty about Amsoil DON"T DO IT.

I have an Eaton rear axle and withing days after the oil change to Amsoil I developed a loud whine. I have changed back to Kendall diff fluid and also have been adding Power Punch additive and it is quieting down.

Dana, you might check the front access door as on mine there is an ID plate that should tell you the model of the axles, transmission, engine gross weight etc.

Mine looks like this:


HTH

Ed, Rusty again the men with the plan. I kept trying to remember where I had seen all that info from the sticker. When you said where that plate was the light bulb went on. Heck I could have just used yours. Same rear end , same front end, 10/28/93 Date of mfg. Weights just a bit different.

Amsoil I have been running their 2 cycle oil in everything that takes mixed at 90 to 1 for more years than I care to think about. All still running strong no smoke, no what takes what. Okay I don't go all the way to 100 to 1 but still it has been great. Multiple chainsaws,leaf blower,gas trimmer, ice augers everything runs different ratios.

Now I'm no fool and if Rusty and Ed agree something aint right I'm on board. No Amsoil

I looked the specs and info on the 15040S Eaton. Takes 21 pints of Lube. Also I looked at it again and the bottom hole is a drain hole at the bottom center of the case. The next hole up made for a temp sensor(Nice) the higher hole(about 1/2 way up is fill level hole. Fill to the bottom of the hole when leveled. There is also a breather at the top that can also be used to fill it.

No Mag Hytech cover for the Eaton there is no back cover the front unbolts. Looks like there is a slight seep from all the plugs and maybe the drive shaft seal. Going to degrease and see what I've got going before changing lube. Might have to change the seal before fluid.

Thanks for all the help Guys