12-24-2019, 10:42 AM
junk_2_jewelsWiring for 1970 25'
All hands on deck
I am starting my restore on a 1970 barth coach. I had ordered the CD a while back but didnt see what I need. My coach is one of the oldest one on this forum and any help would greatly appreciated.
Here is the problem:
I need to get a idea where everything is connected for wiring. The squirrels and rats have made a mess of things. I just want to focus on the running of the engine and then move on to the rest. I downloaded a couple wiring diagrams on the net for a 1970 Chevy truck and that might work. any ideas?
Also I would like to disconnect the rest of the cabin so the thing doesn't catch on fire and just focus on the running of the engine.
I took some picture of the engine before the critters so that is helping
Thanks
Randy
Junk to Jewels
12-24-2019, 11:41 AM
Harold,Cat&SamSounds like quite the undertaking ....best wishes and kudos for taking it on .
You will be able to start from scratch and build it to your liking . Wiring isn't too difficult , just time consuming ...enjoy and have fun with it
12-25-2019, 10:10 AM
Steve VWRV wiring is notoriously variable but the GM stuff should be fairly straightforward. I'm pretty sure by 70 they had alternators (not generators) and HEI ignition. Also no electric fuel pump?
You will need heavy cables from battery to ground and starter.
Another good sized cable from alternator output to + terminal. Some smaller wires from the alternator to the regulator (if it has one) and switched power from key switch.
A main power wire to the key switch. Provides power to the distributor/ignition coil and alternator, and powers the starter solenoid for cranking.
Disconnect everything else. Label for reattachment later.
This should allow cranking and running. No guages, lights, etc. Depending on your setup you may have to hook a wire to an electric choke heater, etc.
Assuming you then plan to move it, you will need brake lights. Depending on the OEM wiring, the brake circuit often routes through the turn signal switch to piggyback onto the the rear lamps. If you apply power to the brake light switch you may be able to back feed from there. Otherwise you will have to find the original tail light wires and connect them to the brake switch and a power source from the battery.
It is often quicker to completely replace a wiring harness rather than waste time troubleshooting ancient wires. It doesn't have to be done all at once. Whenever you work on stuff, replace any wiring that looks flaky.
Hopefully your main fuse panel wiring is still usable. If not, you will have to rewire each circuit from a switched or hot source, through a new fuse and out to the circuit. Tedious.
Good luck with your project.
12-25-2019, 10:11 AM
junk_2_jewelsThanks
So I am guessing this model does not have a starter solenoid since I am not seeing one. I found the battery Isolator and will not connect it to the side that goes to the rear batteries. I believe I have drums brakes all around and No power Brakes or steering.
Also I believe the coach is a 1972. The windshields has a few rock chips but it is the rubber that would need to be replaced. I was hoping to have the windshields made somewhere I don't think they will survive being removed to replace the rubber gaskets.
I do have a question if anyone knows it. I found in the engine not hocked up to anything was a 4" 5/8 rubber hose and had a plastic line attached to it. might be going inside the cab. What is this for?
12-25-2019, 10:38 AM
junk_2_jewelsThanks
The cab wiring is pretty much in tact. I found a few wiring eaten away but was able to easily repair. Most of the wiring are dry and brittle. the fuse box looks good and I found the main power wiring to the ignition switch broken or cut. Under the dog house is a mess and the hood compartment. There is a six prong connector around the engine compartment which i believe might be for the rear lights but is discounted, still working on that.
I do have electric fuel pumps for both tanks but not sure if there were added later. I will inspect for mechanical fuel pump maybe it was replace at one time.
Randy
quote:
Originally posted by Steve VW:
RV wiring is notoriously variable but the GM stuff should be fairly straightforward. I'm pretty sure by 70 they had alternators (not generators) and HEI ignition. Also no electric fuel pump?
You will need heavy cables from battery to ground and starter.
Another good sized cable from alternator output to + terminal. Some smaller wires from the alternator to the regulator (if it has one) and switched power from key switch.
A main power wire to the key switch. Provides power to the distributor/ignition coil and alternator, and powers the starter solenoid for cranking.
Disconnect everything else. Label for reattachment later.
This should allow cranking and running. No guages, lights, etc. Depending on your setup you may have to hook a wire to an electric choke heater, etc.
Assuming you then plan to move it, you will need brake lights. Depending on the OEM wiring, the brake circuit often routes through the turn signal switch to piggyback onto the the rear lamps. If you apply power to the brake light switch you may be able to back feed from there. Otherwise you will have to find the original tail light wires and connect them to the brake switch and a power source from the battery.
It is often quicker to completely replace a wiring harness rather than waste time troubleshooting ancient wires. It doesn't have to be done all at once. Whenever you work on stuff, replace any wiring that looks flaky.
Hopefully your main fuse panel wiring is still usable. If not, you will have to rewire each circuit from a switched or hot source, through a new fuse and out to the circuit. Tedious.
Good luck with your project.
12-25-2019, 01:28 PM
Steve VWquote:
Originally posted by junk_2_jewels:
Thanks
Also I believe the coach is a 1972. The windshields has a few rock chips but it is the rubber that would need to be replaced. I was hoping to have the windshields made somewhere I don't think they will survive being removed to replace the rubber gaskets.
The date is important. Before about Oct 72, the windshields were smaller and are not available anywhere we know of. After late 72 they used DW730 and DW731 windshields which are still available.
see here:
https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...283989487#4283989487