Hi All,

I haven't posted in quite a while. I hope it is now OK to attach files.

On the way home from our last trip, the instrument panel loights went out. All of them. When checking the fuse, which is OK, I noticed a burnt and melted connector in the fuse block. Could this be the problem? There is no label on the block. The black wire quickly splits then disappears into an electrical taped bundle of wires that are nigh impossible to trace.

Pic with connection in block circled.

Any help appreciated.

Was there a corresponding wire from that burnt socket?

Yes. I did a little more involved tracing. A black wire that splits, one goes to cruise control stalk on steering column, other goes to a bundle then into firewall. I guess that's why the cruise control doesn't work.

Now, if fuse is good, then I have to find wire that powers dash lights. No idea how to do that. I'll look around some more.

Meanwhile, my other project, re-riveting passenger side rear storage compartment, has hit a snag. It appears that half the bottom and all the left side rivets never held anything they just went into the frame, nothing else.

You can buy a wire tracer for under $20 on ebay. I've had one for years. You hook up the RF generator on one end and then go the the end of the bundle with the receiver. Sometimes it's great and sometime frustrating.

i do not know the details but the fuse block is definitely the problem or the result of a problem .

my guess is many even different models Barths of the same year range used very very similar wiring layouts no mater what size

it looks like a "generic " fuse block not made by or for Barth. that is good news ,
if there are any model or part numbers on it try to buy an other equal . it may be a common truck part . replace it if at all possible ,
if you cannot find a replacement you will have to unwire and isolate the subsection of the bad fuse block and " build " a secondary fuse block for the specific functions affected by the burn out of the existing fuse block ..

(( my guess from the pictures is this connection in the original fuse block got corroded , the blue / green , this corrosion caused additional resistance , which caused heat , which melted the plastic . or a downstream power user , lights , a fan , a heater , went bad and over drew this circuit and overheated this connection )))

a secondary fuse box or block is common in many this and is used
for added features by oem many times

you will have to put a tested on this wire before you are finished and see what it is drawing in amps and see if it is too high and if it is fix the why in the too high .

hope this helps

It looks like you have a GM fuse block similar to the one I had on my 86 Regal. I downloaded the entire wiring diagram here on the site. There are several pages of reference to the fuse panel: labels, circuits and part number.
(GM #12034359 fuse block)

The top row shows A B I L and W terminals used for power sources for accessories. B is on all the time, A I L and W are switched by key. Your wire at the top looks like a W power feed that got overloaded or corroded or both. It is labelled as a source for heater/AC fan.

Your picture also shows the 5 amp fuse for the "Inst Lps" in the top row of fuses. Power runs through that fuse to an L terminal above, then through a feed wire to the headlight switch. The dash lights are then controlled by the headlight switch.

Further inspection shows several of your circuits are overfused, should be corrected with proper rated fuses.

15A HORN/DIM is 20A.
20A CHOKE is 25A
20A TAIL LPS is 30A
15A HAZ is 20A
15A TURN B/U is 20A

Not sure if fuse blocks are available new but there were many, many of them used on Chevy trucks and vans for many years.

Full diagram here: http://truckroadservice.com/ba...ts/86_P30_wiring.pdf

Attached is one of the fuse panel pages, there are others showing front and back sides as well.

quote:

GM #12034359 fuse block)

this is an other link to the fuse box itself if it helps


1989 WIRING DIAGRAMS RV, P TRUCK MODELS - 73-87 ...http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com › Wiring › ST...PDF
prior written permission of the GMC Truck Division of General Motors Corp. ... the fuse block, refer to the power distribution circuit.

Not sure your problem is in your fuse block. GM light switch have a issue of melting the contacts where the connector plug goes into switch. The rheostat that controls the dimming of dash lights starts arcing and burn up the switch. To remove switch pull halve way and there is a small button that release the shaft then remove shaft. Remove retaining nut and remove switch. After you remove the dash. Some times you can clean the contacts. If you did not tail/running lights or blow a fuse this is most likely your problem. If you blow fuse in tail light circuit you will lose dash lights.

I have not seen your coach ror sale on craiglist for awhile.

quote:

Originally posted by Doorman:
I have not seen your coach for sale on Craigslist for awhile.

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Craig, that is a blast from the past. Quinn's Barth would be on Craigslist and then end up here in Barth sightings.

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Craig you are right about the headlight switch. Somewhere on here is how to install a relay to solve headlight switch problem.

Found it!

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Headlight Relay Installation

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Bypass the fuse block and put an inline fuse with a headlight label on it.

Thanks Kevin

quote:

Originally posted by Jim and Tere:
Thanks Kevin

Thank you JIM for recognizing my efforts. It is not easy to find since Rusty called his topic head "lamp" and not head "light" relay installation.

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My Light Emitting Diode head "lamps" only draw 15 watts each. A Standard Halogen was around 55 watts.

My headlight switch got hot. I then performed the headlight power relay conversion and am pleased with the results based on testing the power at the lights. My headlight switch continued to get quite warm. Figured burnt switch contacts. When replacing the switch I discovered the duct hose to the side window defroster had come off of the backside of the louver and was blowing directly on to the switch. Note, I keep my climate control temperature on heat for continual circulation through the heater core, fan off). I recommend the conversion, and a simple inspection.