heater hose nightmare

10-03-2017, 08:42 AM

Jim and Tere

quote:
Originally posted by Steve VW:
The bypass patch made it home. Have to replace antifreeze for sure.

I will have to inspect under the coach and hope to find the routing of those hoses and decide on replacement. This could be a major project, I will keep you posted. Meanwhile I want to run to Ohio on the 12th. Probably not fixed by then. Maybe by Dec for Hillsborough.

Any way, no other problems. Dad's boat is in the barn for the winter and winterized. Had a great weekend with the folks. They will both be 86 in Dec. The boat is 90 years old now.

Still not sure the coolant capacity of the system. Engine holds 3 gallons but the rad systems vary (side, rear, etc) and I'm not sure which exact setup I have. Probably another 5 gallons or so. We'll see.

Every time I read of your adventures with your Dad and the boat, it brings a smile because I know what great memories you have. And always will.
Jim

Have Barth, will travel

10-03-2017, 03:03 PM

MWrench

quote:
Originally posted by Kevin:
Steve's earlier suggestion, Schedule K is a soft copper, and will give when bent. It comes in a roll. It can be crimped for emergency shutoff, and with the proper tool un-crimped to restore flow. Something to consider for Barthmobile coolant lines. My guess is copper has less internal friction to move coolant along the long runs with less friction.

As the coolant thru these lines is only for cabin heat and preheating the domestic water heater tank, flow rates would not be important. A long length of copper pipe if exposed to ambient would be a really good heat sink and reduce the temperature as it flows to and from the front.

The old rubber hose was a bit expanded from age, the new hose was same internal dimension and fit all the connections necessary including the bypass system I made.

I made a tee fitting with a restricter that reduced the flow to the domestic water heater as I certainly agree with Steve that with 180 degree coolant thru the preheater, domestic water was way to hot after a long run. I didn't want to eliminate this feature as it is nice to have hot water on arrival. I was going to put a thermostat in line but was way more work than a simple restricter. IIRC it is about a 0.030 hole thru the restricter in the input line to the domestic heater.

10-03-2017, 03:40 PM

Steve VW

Drained the 8.3 and refilled with fresh 50/50 antifreeze. Around 7 gallons in the system and a half in the expansion tank. New coolant filter and we're good to go for now, sans engine coach heat.

If I used copper I would use foam pipe insulation around it, at least on the supply line side. (like domestic water heater lines often do)

Good hoses, backed up with bypass valves installed will likely be the plan.

10-03-2017, 08:32 PM

ccctimtation

I was thinking of the problem of "too hot" and thinking this isn't a new problem, there must be some solution. This from Watts may help, didn't read thoroughly, wife called to dinner. http://www.watts.com/pages/lea...ingValves.asp?catId=

10-21-2017, 10:25 AM

Richard_Muise

How can you tell if the hose is healthy?

10-21-2017, 05:04 PM

MWrench

Like any rubber or plastic part, age is an important consideration. Our coaches are 23 years old. Hoses can last a very long time if they are not exposed to UV, chaffing or chemicals.

I replaced all of my hoses right after I got it. I did not see any real issues but there were some areas that had signs of chaffing. When I replaced the hoses, I made sure the ares of chaffing were addressed.

I found issues with the radiator hoses that did require immediate attention.

The lower steel crossover pipe was making contact with the stainless steel air pressure hose and was almost worn thru.

03-02-2020, 12:40 PM

csnasdell

Just completed engine swap in my 85 Regal, out with the smog choked old 454, in with the 518 (tweaked 502). I am not positive I got all the heater core cooling lines back correctly. Is there a schematic anywhere showing what connects to what and direction of flow. I know it should be pretty obvious but every time I look at all those hoses I get a headache! Would appreciate any help.

03-08-2020, 12:46 PM

Steve VW

I was not able to find a diagram for the heater hose layout on the 454. On mine the hose to the heater was attached to the intake manifold next to the thermostat.

The return line was attached to the radiator right side tank. (the tee is for the return line from my aux heater) Both lines run just in front of the orange wire, up to the heater core.

I finally did replace the heater lines in the Monarch. I was dreading having to snake the hoses along the frame rails above the cargo bays and I stalled the project for quite a while.

As luck would have it, I have a full length heater air duct that runs under the floor of the coach. I was able to open up the front and rear of the duct and it was easy to pull the heater hoses through the floor duct. I connected them to the engine in the rear and the heater up front. I would have done it sooner if I knew the floor duct was easy to access.

Have Barth, will travel




	1985 Regal 29' Chevy 454 P32 8411 3172 29FP3B Gear Vendor 6 Speed Tranny