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Formally known as "Humbojb"
As the coolant thru these lines is only for cabin heat and preheating the domestic water heater tank, flow rates would not be important. A long length of copper pipe if exposed to ambient would be a really good heat sink and reduce the temperature as it flows to and from the front.
The old rubber hose was a bit expanded from age, the new hose was same internal dimension and fit all the connections necessary including the bypass system I made.
I made a tee fitting with a restricter that reduced the flow to the domestic water heater as I certainly agree with Steve that with 180 degree coolant thru the preheater, domestic water was way to hot after a long run. I didn't want to eliminate this feature as it is nice to have hot water on arrival. I was going to put a thermostat in line but was way more work than a simple restricter. IIRC it is about a 0.030 hole thru the restricter in the input line to the domestic heater.
94 30' Breakaway #3864
30-BS-6B side entry
230 Cummins, Allison 6 speed
Drained the 8.3 and refilled with fresh 50/50 antifreeze. Around 7 gallons in the system and a half in the expansion tank. New coolant filter and we're good to go for now, sans engine coach heat.
If I used copper I would use foam pipe insulation around it, at least on the supply line side. (like domestic water heater lines often do)
Good hoses, backed up with bypass valves installed will likely be the plan.
86 Regal SE 33 Tag axle--"98" Monarch 37
Chev P3(7) 454TBI--------Cummins 8.3 300 hp
400 hp fuel injected-------6 spd Allison, Spartan MM
I was thinking of the problem of "too hot" and thinking this isn't a new problem, there must be some solution. This from Watts may help, didn't read thoroughly, wife called to dinner. http://www.watts.com/pages/lea...ingValves.asp?catId=
I was taught to respect my elders but it is getting harder to find them!
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