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heater hose nightmare
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Supporting Member of 6/12
Formally known as "Humbojb"
Picture of Jim and Tere
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Originally posted by Steve VW:
The bypass patch made it home. Have to replace antifreeze for sure.

I will have to inspect under the coach and hope to find the routing of those hoses and decide on replacement. This could be a major project, I will keep you posted. Meanwhile I want to run to Ohio on the 12th. Probably not fixed by then. Maybe by Dec for Hillsborough.

Any way, no other problems. Dad's boat is in the barn for the winter and winterized. Had a great weekend with the folks. They will both be 86 in Dec. The boat is 90 years old now.

Still not sure the coolant capacity of the system. Engine holds 3 gallons but the rad systems vary (side, rear, etc) and I'm not sure which exact setup I have. Probably another 5 gallons or so. We'll see.

Every time I read of your adventures with your Dad and the boat, it brings a smile because I know what great memories you have. And always will.

Have Barth, will travel Tooling Along

Jim and TereJim and Tere

1985 Regal
29' Chevy 454 P32
8411 3172 29FP3B
Gear Vendor 6 Speed Tranny
Posts: 3142 | Location: madisonville tn usa | Member Since: 02-19-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of 10/08
Picture of MWrench
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Originally posted by Kevin:
Steve's earlier suggestion, Schedule K is a soft copper, and will give when bent. It comes in a roll. It can be crimped for emergency shutoff, and with the proper tool un-crimped to restore flow. Something to consider for Barthmobile coolant lines. My guess is copper has less internal friction to move coolant along the long runs with less friction.

As the coolant thru these lines is only for cabin heat and preheating the domestic water heater tank, flow rates would not be important. A long length of copper pipe if exposed to ambient would be a really good heat sink and reduce the temperature as it flows to and from the front.

The old rubber hose was a bit expanded from age, the new hose was same internal dimension and fit all the connections necessary including the bypass system I made.

I made a tee fitting with a restricter that reduced the flow to the domestic water heater as I certainly agree with Steve that with 180 degree coolant thru the preheater, domestic water was way to hot after a long run. I didn't want to eliminate this feature as it is nice to have hot water on arrival. I was going to put a thermostat in line but was way more work than a simple restricter. IIRC it is about a 0.030 hole thru the restricter in the input line to the domestic heater.

94 30' Breakaway #3864
30-BS-6B side entry
230 Cummins, Allison 6 speed
Spartan chassis
Posts: 1888 | Location: Los Gatos, CA | Member Since: 12-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of 7/17
Picture of Steve VW
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Drained the 8.3 and refilled with fresh 50/50 antifreeze. Around 7 gallons in the system and a half in the expansion tank. New coolant filter and we're good to go for now, sans engine coach heat.

If I used copper I would use foam pipe insulation around it, at least on the supply line side. (like domestic water heater lines often do)

Good hoses, backed up with bypass valves installed will likely be the plan. Mechanic

86 Regal SE 33 Tag axle--"98" Monarch 37
Chev P3(7) 454TBI--------Cummins 8.3 300 hp
400 hp fuel injected-------6 spd Allison, Spartan MM
Posts: 3147 | Location: Kalkaska, MI | Member Since: 02-04-2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of 12/10
Picture of ccctimtation
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I was thinking of the problem of "too hot" and thinking this isn't a new problem, there must be some solution. This from Watts may help, didn't read thoroughly, wife called to dinner.

I was taught to respect my elders but it is getting harder to find them!
Posts: 714 | Location: St. Charles, MO, USA | Member Since: 10-09-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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