Don't feel so bad about breaking an Easy Out. They know my face at Tap Ex.

As for the cam, they jigger overelap and lobe centers to meet smog. Don't get wrapped up in it. Ignore lift. Talk to users and grinders. Call the same cam company on different times of day, and see if you get a different guy with slight differences in shadings and nuance. Jack used to drop in at Engle Cams now and then. Maybe he will be there. Call up Joe Mondello and tell him you have an Olds powered GMC and see what he says. I have been with him since the 60's. He favors Engle, or used to, anyway. Go with who you feel the best about talking to. What does your coach and tow weigh? Everyone will ask you that. Tell me, and I will ask a buddy in Desert Hot Springs for his reccy. He has a 454 MH and is a hot rodder who really knows his way around Chevvies.

However, selecting a cam is ultimately, Kierkegaardian leap of faith, but perhaps absent the "fear and trembling".

If there is a more mis-named tool than "easy out," I don't know what it is.

quote:

As for the cam, they jigger overelap and lobe centers to meet smog. Don't get wrapped up in it. Ignore lift. Talk to users and grinders. Call the same cam company on different times of day, and see if you get a different guy with slight differences in shadings and nuance.

Wha??

Bill:

Thanks for suggesting Engle Cams, I did not know they are local.

I chatted with Carl at Engle and he suggested I pull the existing CAM and they would profile it so I have a base line. Good point as I have no idea what is in the engine at the moment. It runs quite strongly and given the other things (the oil cooler for instance) it is possible the CAM was replaced at some point.

However the desire to break the hearts of 200 K motor home owners as we fly over the grape vine runs strong, I'm always open to change.


Carl was easy to talk to on the phone, we both share an affinity for cash transactions and they have a nice roller timing chain for seventy bucks.

Engle stocks two CAM for the "torque, lower RPM" dually and motorhome market, one a bit "hotter" (what ever that means without looking at the specs) than the other . When I drop the existing CAM off and with any new information that may come by in the next week or so I will select something.

Engle is local, I like to spend locally when I can, China is not local, so as long as they stock or will do a CAM that is in range we are off and running.


Since I do not have to sweat smog and this sure is not something that requires Grand Prix performance specifications the profile should be simple and well with in the state of the art. I am sure Engle will do a nice job.


Timothy

quote:

If there is a more mis-named tool than "easy out," I don't know what it is.

Now THAT'S funny!...a rimshot for olroy!

The METAL DISINTEGRATOR MACHINE (MDM) (aka) ELECTRIC DISCHARGE MACHINE(EDM) was designed and manufactured specifically for removing broken tools and fasteners.

EASY-OUT, EASYOUT, EZ OUT, EZY OUT, BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
(AKA) Bolt Extractor, Screw Extractor, Bolt Remover, Stud Extractor, Stud Remover.

The EASY-OUT or bolt extractor tool by design can be a very useful tool for the removal of broken bolts and studs "IF" conditions for its use are perfect and preparation procedure are followed exact. Without going into when and how the easy-out or extractor will work I"ll give you some circumstances when they generally don't and reasons why you might want to try another approach.

For example a 3/8 inch bolt breaks when you are trying to remove it. The only reason a bolt or stud will break when removing is severe seizure. In this scenario the extractor recommended for removal would be 3/l6 inch to 1/4 inch in diameter. Most easy-outs are designed and manufactured using hardened material making them tough but also very brittle. In a this case the recommended extraction tool is about half the size of the broken bolt and three times as brittle, the easy-out will break practically every time.

In a case where the easy-out might have a chance for success, the steps for preparing the broken bolt are critical. For example, you have a broken exhaust bolt in the cylinder head on the engine in a car. The location of the broken bolt may be difficult to access, making the proper preparation that much more difficult. When drilling a hole for an extractor it is critical the hole is the correct size, perfectly on center and straight. In this situation a mistake in any one of the proper steps could result in the following problems:

If the hole is drilled to big, the extractor expands the remaining shell of the bolt defeating its purpose.
If the hole is the proper size but off center, the same result will occur.
If the hole is the right size and on center but on an angle to the bolt, the chance of drilling that hole into the threaded hole is highly probable.
In this case, the easyout can be driven through the side of the broken bolt into the threaded hole and become a locking device. Again, working against itself. Easy-outs extractors "CAN" work "IF the application is right and the correct steps are followed. The problems created as a result of mistakes like the ones pointed out above are as follows. Continuing to drill larger holes in the broken bolt when the hole is off center or at an angle will result in not only damaged threads and possible head damage but you'll still have portions of the broken bolt left in the hole.

Any steps taken from this point can become very desperate. You might try the ez-out anyway and break it, NOW what? Anger and frustration could set in, large hammers, chisels and maybe even torches come out and all rational thinking is gone. At this point the probability of success is remote and the possibility of destroying the head or manifold is very high. Besides the aggravation and the cost to replace or repair damaged parts there could result in weeks of wasted time from improperly using the ezy out extractor tool.

BrokenTap.com

Just posting an interesting read. It seems like this is all this company does. Who would have thought...

All you need is an MDM or a EDM...

Bill N.Y.

Any time you are using an EZ-Out you will need a helicoil to fill the extra-large bolt hole you made trying to remove the broken bolt with a broken EZ-Out welded into the center.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:


BrokenTap.com

Just posting an interesting read. It seems like this is all this company does. Who would have thought...

Bill N.Y.

Yeah, it's a business. I used to have two within a few miles from me. The one I mentioned earlier, Tap Ex is still there, in Gardena. They use an Elox, which, I believe is an earlier iteration of an EDM. The problem is you gotta take your part in to them. I used to go to Paul's Broken Drill and Tap removal, a name very similar to the one you linked. Paul used to come to our hangar with his portable machine. A broken off tap or easy out can ruin jillion dollar aerospace thingy or even a mundane jet engine. Some of the things they save are one of a kind prototypes that are invaluable.



I believe there was a thread on EZ outs here a while back. Yeah, here it is. http://barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3631087061/m/...751078061#1751078061

Elox was the name of the company that made one of the first "electrical discharge machining" machines. They were owned by Colt Industries. Elox, for a while, became a generic name for EDM equipment. Now a bunch of people make EDM machines. Not often that I get to say something intelligent on this site. Couldn't resist the chance.