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Radiator Replacement 1986 P 30
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 12/09
Picture of Turbodoc
posted
Can anyone share their experiences replacing the radiator in a P 30?


Larry A. Barry DDS
2006 Tiffin Zephyr
NV5I
 
Posts: 59 | Location: Amarillo, Texas | Member Since: 02-20-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
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I did mine a little while back.
I can't remember exactly what, but I just started removing stuff and pulled it back and up. I ended up cutting the upper support channel in half. I used a couple sheets of cardboard to protect the radiator from damage as I removed it. I also removed the air cleaner and its stud so I could lay some carpet over the engine for my comfort. It is best to have another person outside on installation to help you guide it back in. Glue the rubber radiator pads so they stay in position.

My memory is not detailed, so if you need to call me once you get started, I can go out and look and there might be better information. Things usually come back to me once I see it again. My recall is more associative than absolute. I will try to look tomorrow when there is more time.

Does your dash air work?


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6170 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 12/09
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I'm assuming the dash air works, but I've not tried it in a while since its been really cool here. I think I will try to remove it without removing the AC Cond. and drop it out the bottom. Just wanted to know if anyone has done it that way. I could just deplete the AC charge, pull everything out the front access, that will make it alot easier to change the belts hoses and water pump. Then have the system recharged, its due anyway.


Larry A. Barry DDS
2006 Tiffin Zephyr
NV5I
 
Posts: 59 | Location: Amarillo, Texas | Member Since: 02-20-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
The Old Man and No Barth
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Think twice about discharging your a/c if it still works, & has R12 refrigerant. If you can find R12 it's like gold.

OTOH, now would be a good time to convert your system to R132a, but it's not as simple as discharging & refilling the system. It has to be completely purged, & sometimes old components won't survive the different properties of R132a.

Been there, done that on a van conversion a few years ago, but I replaced everything but the condenser.

Read up on it, & get professional advice. It's within the realm of DIY, but be sure you're filled in on all the details before you start. I seem to recall something about having to have the system charged by a licensed technician, too, but like El Segundo Bill, my memory is hazy on the details.
 
Posts: 1421 | Location: Upper Left Corner | Member Since: 10-28-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 12/09
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Here's what I found out so far. I agree that discharging the AC isn't my first option. Since my Motorhome is 1,000 miles from my shop I think I'll leave that to professionals. I did speak with April at Motor Mission Radiator (702) 649-0648 in Las Vegas, they do these replacements all the time and they could do the work in a day as long as I can get it there in the early morning. I'll have them replace the water pump, hoses, belts and charge the system if needed. I may have them install an oil cooler and additional transcooler if possible. This thing tends to run a little on the hot side.


Larry A. Barry DDS
2006 Tiffin Zephyr
NV5I
 
Posts: 59 | Location: Amarillo, Texas | Member Since: 02-20-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
First Month Member
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
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quote:
Originally posted by Turbodoc:
I'll have them replace the water pump, hoses, belts and charge the system if needed. I may have them install an oil cooler and additional transcooler if possible. This thing tends to run a little on the hot side.


Glad to hear that you are gonna do it up right. I was holding back on my usual overkill advice, but here goes: I use a high flow water pump and a Perma-Cool 19115 electric fan with thermostat control. It is mounted on metal brackets right behind the radiator. Do not let them use the plastic prongs that poke through the radiator.

As for oil cooler, and trans cooler, go with Long. Buying a trans cooler is a crapshoot. If you bought too big, you will have spent a little more money than necessary. If you bought too small, you gotta buy another one and install it, and now have a used cooler you don't need. Either way, you don't know until you go up that big hill on a hot day.

For a trans cooler, I would put in the biggest Long Tru-Cool, like the 4739, the first time. It is one of the very few that actually give a BTU rating instead of a blue-sky load rating. If you have it in good air flow, like in front of the radiator, a fan might not be necessary. But if you heat up the converter in traffic or fighting your way into a difficult boondocking site, an electric fan is a necessity. An electric puller fan behind the radiator might be enough for both radiator and coolers. A puller fan can be useful if you kick it on before a potential hi heat situation. Again, you don't really know until you get too hot. However if you install the Tru Cool without a cooler fan, you can add a dedicated cooler fan later if it is needed. Cooler fans are pretty economical and easy to install, even after the fact. So, go big on the cooler now, and be sure. It might even save you money and time.

Use the radiator heat exchanger, too.

As for engine oil coolers, you are getting into an interesting area. Does the coach have one now?

As for the hoses, be sure they put in hoses that are smooth, not corrugated. My suggestion is to use steel reinforced marine hose between the water pump and intake manifold. The longer it lasts, the happier you will be. Anyone here who has changed one on the road will nod loudly. Also, be sure there is a spring inside the lower hose. If the old one has one, it can be re-used. Many new hoses don't have them. Be sure the top hose is long enough to allow you to cut off a coupla inches at the manifold outlet when it fails on the road. That is where they fail.

Consider Water Wetter.

I have removed my dash air condenser. I didn't want any extra heat dumped into the radiator, and I didn't want air flow compromised. Dash air doesn't do the job, anyway. We run the gen and the roof air if we get hot driving.

This all may sound like overkill, but both our boat and toad are heavy, and we go up some steep ones. The penalties of overkill are more palatable to me than the penalties of underkill.

Some of these issues may have been addressed in a long-ago post on heat issues, some maybe not.


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6170 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 12/09
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That is some great advice! For those of you who don't know what WaterWetter is, This is Red Lines Explanation:
WaterWetter® is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30ºF. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems. Compatible with all antifreezes, including the latest long-life variations.


Larry A. Barry DDS
2006 Tiffin Zephyr
NV5I
 
Posts: 59 | Location: Amarillo, Texas | Member Since: 02-20-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
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Just got back in town and saw your post. I replaced the radiator about 2 years ago. It came out the bottom without too much problem, but you have to get the front end way up off the ground. I have a friend with a wrecker and he lifted it up so we could put a couple really massive jack stands under her, left it that way till the new rad was ready and in, then he came back and lifted her so we could remove the stands. Don't know how else you'd get the front high enough. Sounds like you're having it done so this is old news, but somebody else may need to know someday.


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3426 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 12/09
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Thanks for the advice, it looked easier to take out the bottom, but since I don't have access to a lift-I'm having it done. Im trying to talk the shop forman into letting me document the entire process, since I don't have anywhere to go while they are working on it. I may just tinker with the Onan.


Larry A. Barry DDS
2006 Tiffin Zephyr
NV5I
 
Posts: 59 | Location: Amarillo, Texas | Member Since: 02-20-2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
"5+ Years of Active Membership"
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Larry,
were you able to document the process for removing the radiator?


’84 Barth Regal 25 ‘
w/ “FRED” FRont End Diesel
Chevy 6.2 L diesel
 
Posts: 175 | Location: Edgewood, KY, USA | Member Since: 08-26-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
"5+ Years of Active Membership"
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Bill H. & other tech guys. You have always offered great advice. I'm hoping that you have some wisdom on this issue.

Well, it looks like I will need to go with the new radiator. The repair made in place was just not robust enough.

I'm still scratchin my head about how to remove & re-install the radiator in my unit. The radiator is wider than the two rail arms. The chasis is an '82 P30 powered by the Chevy 6.2 L diesel. The radiator is also wider the the service door opening. I'm considering taking out the dash to get to it. The dash looks to be in two pieces. So, perhaps only the section nearest the windshield must be removed. Any advice or experience about removing the dash is appreciated.

Assuming there is a reasonable way to remove it, any recommendations on a replacement unit. While I'm at it, I intend to replace the trans cooler too. So, any recommendations for the cooler are appreciated too.


’84 Barth Regal 25 ‘
w/ “FRED” FRont End Diesel
Chevy 6.2 L diesel
 
Posts: 175 | Location: Edgewood, KY, USA | Member Since: 08-26-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Danny Z has a picture posted of how he got his radiator out...

http://barthmobile.com/eve/for...=426109932#426109932

Matt


1987 Barth 27' P32 Chassis
Former State Police Command Post
Chevrolet 454
Weiand Manifold, Crane Cam, Gibson Exhaust
 
Posts: 454 | Location: Massachusetts | Member Since: 07-28-2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 5/10
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Our radiator came out the front, the mechanic had to loosen the right headlight assembly and it was tight, but out it came (still got it). Somewhere are some pics.


1999 Bluebird Custom 33' 8.3 Cummins diesel pusher

Former owner 1989 Barth Regal 25'


 
Posts: 1307 | Location: Big South Fork TN | Member Since: 09-29-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks to y’all for your input.
The headlight assembly removal is an intriguing option. The picture in my mind is that removal of the assembly provides additional horizontal opening. If you have any pictures of this, I would appreciate seeing them. This option seems like it might be faster and easier.
Here’s a thought, “could the radiator used with the diesel be larger than the radiator used with the large block gasser?”. If so, then it might explain why this radiator appears to be too big to pull out through the opening.
Your ideas are appreciated.


’84 Barth Regal 25 ‘
w/ “FRED” FRont End Diesel
Chevy 6.2 L diesel
 
Posts: 175 | Location: Edgewood, KY, USA | Member Since: 08-26-2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 7/17
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My 86 service manual show the only different between 454 and 6.2 being a internal oil cooler for the diesel. checking replacecements, both show 34 X 19.5".
Doorman


1986 31' Regal -1976 Class C
454/T400 P30 -350/T400 G30
twin cntr beds - 21' rear bath
 
Posts: 1025 | Location: Dayton, Ohio | Member Since: 09-27-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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