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While checking a repair patch on the roof (the antenna was leaking or so I'm 95% sure that was the source of that leak) with a hose over the front 1/2 of the roof tonight I found another leak dripping out of the passenger side top window frame. The wall above was a little wet as well so I determined it was coming in on one of the 3 things around there (a mount for an antenna and 2 cable tv covers). Well I started with removing the antenna mount as that was the closest to the leak then covered with some butyl tape, nodda, the first cable cover, again nada, 3rd was filled with water. There is a reason why you don't caulk all the way around a cover like that I guess. So now I have 4 1/8" screw holes, 2 3/8" holes for the cable and 4 1/4" holes from the antenna mount. Anybody have a good way to fix 'em that wouldn't look like a patch on the outside?
This is what I used on the leak where the previous owner had installed an antenna. The antenna was broken so I just removed it and covered it with over lapping strips of https://www.google.com/aclk?sa...VT0DR4QvhcIKw&adurl=. That was about 15 years ago and it is not leaking.
Be sure and clean around the area to be sealed.
Don't mess with us old folks, we don't get old by being stupid!
1968 Barth trailer, 1975 Barth Motorhome and 1985 Barth Motorhome
Thanks Mary but since it is the siding I was hoping for a more "attractive" fix. If I can't come up with some sort of patch I am thinking about ordering some rubber sheet metal plugs and then painting them to "blend" in better. The screw holes I'm thinking I can just put some screws with rubber washers like the kind used for roofing.
you could plug the holes with rivets. just make sure they are the closed end type.
Holes are too big for rivets at 3/8-1/2" and a 1/4 inch. Could do that for the screw holes but those are the least of my concerns.
I put diamond plate aluninum over the rip in the side where my awning attaches.
You could check into rivnuts. they are a threaded insert that (with the use of a special tool) compresses to both sides of the material containing the hole. I have used them, not on the barth but other projects. but I also smeared the outer edge of the rivnut with silicone before compressing. this insures a water tight connection. that leaves you with a threaded hole that you could put thread dope on a bolt and screw into the insert. then the holes are plugged. or take out the ceiling panels and weld the holes shut.
With the aerospace industry using so many high tech bonding adhesives.
Could you use a sheet aluminum disc or discs (available online in a range of diameters and thicknesses; or maybe found locally as scrap) bonded with an aircraft adhesive (3M Scotch Weld or something).
Our pilots probably know the best products to consider.
My friends all make good suggestions. Any big box home center has a metal sales diplay with small to medium sized aluminum diamond plate. Use butyl rubber and closed end rivets. Seal over the rivets with self leveling dicor if on the roof. Walls Use 3M 5200 adhesive(Expensive) if you are trusting without even riveting. I'm not that trusting.
Dana & Lynn
1996 38ft Monarch front entry
Spartan Mountain Master Chassis
Allison MD-3060 6 speed
Cummins Factory Exhaust Brake
1994 34ft Side Entry Aristocrat
Christened - DBarth
6BTA 5.9L 230hp Cummins
Allison MD-3060 6 speed
15040S Eaton rear
Banks PowerPack brings HP 268
ProSine 2.5 Watt Inverter/Charger
Christened Camp Barth
No motor, no tranny, no running water
Electric 110 and 12 volt intact and running
Still mobile as a toad with newer brakes, tires and lights
Has Original Fridgeking Air conditioner so far
Thanks everyone, since it is on the side and is corregated I didn't want to attempt patching with a plate. For now I used some plastic fenderwall caps with a bit of silicone on them. I even rattlecanned 'em with some paint to blend it a bit. Raining pretty good here today and no drips coming in. Next step is to try to peel off all the chaulk from a PO to keep the stuff from leaking. Oh and still trying to track down a leak at one of my vents. Pulled the ceiling open a bit, removed some wet insulation last week then put a fan on it. Still open but stupid me left the vent open last night and it rained so not sure if I solved the leak with some sealing around it and patching the roof from the antenna or if the water dripping on the floor from the vent is not residual. Dried it off good and waiting to see if water accumulates again.
Good job. Be sure to get those leaks fixed. I have spent much time repairing water damage from chronic minor leaks that were not addressed. Floor damage from toilet and shower drain, leaky fittings, roof cracks and window leaks.
The worst part is that after you repair all the damage you still have to repair the leak itself. A real PITA. Nothing like removing a saturated floor around a leaky toilet. Roof leaks can really mess up the interior.
Good luck with the job. Keep your powder dry!
Have Barth, will travel
86 Regal SE 33 Tag axle--"98" Monarch 37
Chev P3(7) 454TBI--------Spartan MM, 6 spd Allison
400 hp fuel injected-------Cummins 8.3 300 hp
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