Screen Removal Bargman L-300 Door Handle brakes Satellite Fuel Tank Fire Extinguishers Roof Antenna Tech Talk Forum Shortcut Motor Oil Window Generators headlights batteries Radiator AC Unit Grab Handle Wiper Blades Wiper Blades Door Locks Door Locks Door Locks Door Locks Rims Front Shocks Rear Shocks Front Tires Oil Filter Steps Roof Vent Awning Propane Tank Mirror Info Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Clearance Lights Spartan Chassis Gillig Chassis Freightliner Chassis P-32 Chassis MCC Chassis
    Forums    Tech Talk    Any advice for fixing a few holes in the aluminum siding
Go to...
Start A New Topic
Search
Notify
Tools
Reply To This Topic
  
Any advice for fixing a few holes in the aluminum siding
 Login now/Join our community
 
Picture of benebob
posted
While checking a repair patch on the roof (the antenna was leaking or so I'm 95% sure that was the source of that leak) with a hose over the front 1/2 of the roof tonight I found another leak dripping out of the passenger side top window frame. The wall above was a little wet as well so I determined it was coming in on one of the 3 things around there (a mount for an antenna and 2 cable tv covers). Well I started with removing the antenna mount as that was the closest to the leak then covered with some butyl tape, nodda, the first cable cover, again nada, 3rd was filled with water. There is a reason why you don't caulk all the way around a cover like that I guess. So now I have 4 1/8" screw holes, 2 3/8" holes for the cable and 4 1/4" holes from the antenna mount. Anybody have a good way to fix 'em that wouldn't look like a patch on the outside?
 
Posts: 83 | Location: Lancaster, PA | Member Since: 09-06-2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/16
Picture of Mary Ray
posted Hide Post
This is what I used on the leak where the previous owner had installed an antenna. The antenna was broken so I just removed it and covered it with over lapping strips of https://www.google.com/aclk?sa...VT0DR4QvhcIKw&adurl=. That was about 15 years ago and it is not leaking.

Be sure and clean around the area to be sealed.


Mary

Don't mess with us old folks, we don't get old by being stupid!
1968 Barth trailer, 1975 Barth Motorhome and 1985 Barth Motorhome

 
Posts: 1595 | Location: Obion, TN/Memphis, TN | Member Since: 11-23-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of benebob
posted Hide Post
Thanks Mary but since it is the siding I was hoping for a more "attractive" fix. If I can't come up with some sort of patch I am thinking about ordering some rubber sheet metal plugs and then painting them to "blend" in better. The screw holes I'm thinking I can just put some screws with rubber washers like the kind used for roofing.
 
Posts: 83 | Location: Lancaster, PA | Member Since: 09-06-2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 5/16
Picture of kenny j
posted Hide Post
you could plug the holes with rivets. just make sure they are the closed end type.
Ken
 
Posts: 81 | Location: grasston, mn | Member Since: 06-16-2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of benebob
posted Hide Post
Holes are too big for rivets at 3/8-1/2" and a 1/4 inch. Could do that for the screw holes but those are the least of my concerns. Smiler
 
Posts: 83 | Location: Lancaster, PA | Member Since: 09-06-2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 8/16
Picture of Kevin
posted Hide Post
I put diamond plate aluninum over the rip in the side where my awning attaches.
 
Posts: 2135 | Location: Northeast , Ohio | Member Since: 07-29-2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 5/16
Picture of kenny j
posted Hide Post
You could check into rivnuts. they are a threaded insert that (with the use of a special tool) compresses to both sides of the material containing the hole. I have used them, not on the barth but other projects. but I also smeared the outer edge of the rivnut with silicone before compressing. this insures a water tight connection. that leaves you with a threaded hole that you could put thread dope on a bolt and screw into the insert. then the holes are plugged. or take out the ceiling panels and weld the holes shut.
Ken
 
Posts: 81 | Location: grasston, mn | Member Since: 06-16-2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 7/13
Picture of Tonka
posted Hide Post
Hi Benebob,

With the aerospace industry using so many high tech bonding adhesives.

Could you use a sheet aluminum disc or discs (available online in a range of diameters and thicknesses; or maybe found locally as scrap) bonded with an aircraft adhesive (3M Scotch Weld or something).

Our pilots probably know the best products to consider.

Thanks, Tooling Along
Wally
 
Posts: 179 | Location: Minnetonka, MN | Member Since: 01-30-2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/13
Picture of Dana
posted Hide Post
My friends all make good suggestions. Any big box home center has a metal sales diplay with small to medium sized aluminum diamond plate. Use butyl rubber and closed end rivets. Seal over the rivets with self leveling dicor if on the roof. Walls Use 3M 5200 adhesive(Expensive) if you are trusting without even riveting. I'm not that trusting.


Dana & Lynn
1994 34ft Side Entry Aristocrat
Christened - DBarth
Spartan Chassis
6BTA 5.9L 230hp Cummins
Allison MD-3060 6 speed
15040S Eaton rear
Banks PowerPack
PacBrake
ProSine 2.5 Watt Inverter/Charger
245 watts solar panels
Blue Sky 3000i
#3895

 
Posts: 599 | Location: Waseca, Minnesota | Member Since: 12-09-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of benebob
posted Hide Post
Thanks everyone, since it is on the side and is corregated I didn't want to attempt patching with a plate. For now I used some plastic fenderwall caps with a bit of silicone on them. I even rattlecanned 'em with some paint to blend it a bit. Raining pretty good here today and no drips coming in. Next step is to try to peel off all the chaulk from a PO to keep the stuff from leaking. Oh and still trying to track down a leak at one of my vents. Pulled the ceiling open a bit, removed some wet insulation last week then put a fan on it. Still open but stupid me left the vent open last night and it rained so not sure if I solved the leak with some sealing around it and patching the roof from the antenna or if the water dripping on the floor from the vent is not residual. Dried it off good and waiting to see if water accumulates again.
 
Posts: 83 | Location: Lancaster, PA | Member Since: 09-06-2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/16
Picture of Steve VW
posted Hide Post
Good job. Be sure to get those leaks fixed. I have spent much time repairing water damage from chronic minor leaks that were not addressed. Floor damage from toilet and shower drain, leaky fittings, roof cracks and window leaks.

The worst part is that after you repair all the damage you still have to repair the leak itself. A real PITA. Nothing like removing a saturated floor around a leaky toilet. Roof leaks can really mess up the interior.

Good luck with the job. Keep your powder dry! Mechanic

Have Barth, will travel Tooling Along


8607-3346-33TFPOB------9708-M0037-37MM-01
86 Regal SE 33 Tag axle--"98" Monarch
Chev P3(7) 454TBI--------Cummins 8.3 300 hp
400 hp fuel injected-------6 spd Allison, Spartan MM
 
Posts: 2922 | Location: Kalkaska, MI | Member Since: 02-04-2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
  Powered by Social Strata  
 

    Forums    Tech Talk    Any advice for fixing a few holes in the aluminum siding

This website is dedicated to the Barth Custom Coach, their owners and those who admire this American made, quality crafted, motor coach.
We are committed to the history, preservation and restoration of the Barth Custom Coach.