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Dash Air
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/09
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Tom,
Thanks for the fantastic pics, what a beautiful installation. Your muffler is on the starboard side? My coach is similar to your and the muffler is on the port side. I have to do more investigation to see if I even have an evaporator in the back bedroom or hallway.
Thanks again.


1990 Regency 32 Center Aisle Spartan Chassis CTA8.3 Cummins 240HP 4 spd Allison 7.5 Diesel Genset Pac-brake Prosine 2000 Mickey's on the Rear Toyos front
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Brady, The Republic of Texas | Member Since: 01-13-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/09
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After much soul searching on this dash air situation, I believe my most cost efficient method is to merely run one of my two roof airs off the inverter. Currently only the rear air runs from my inverter. For my coach my only modification would be to have my alternator rebuilt to pump out approx 140 amps at idle, 200 at running RPMs. In terms of meeting the objective of not running the genset, I think this will work well enough and save me considerably on reworking this dash air.


1990 Regency 32 Center Aisle Spartan Chassis CTA8.3 Cummins 240HP 4 spd Allison 7.5 Diesel Genset Pac-brake Prosine 2000 Mickey's on the Rear Toyos front
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Brady, The Republic of Texas | Member Since: 01-13-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 03/22
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quote:
Originally posted by Stratosurfer:
Currently only the rear air runs from my inverter. For my coach my only modification would be to have my alternator rebuilt to pump out approx 140 amps at idle, 200 at running RPMs.


I don't know what model roof A/C unit you have but I can not run either of my roof A/C from my Honda inverter 2000 watt generator, when the compressor starts it drags it right down. I have a RS3000 and that would power one of the roof A/C and I also have a 200 amp (at idle) alternator but wouldn't use it that way. I am replacing the alternator with a lower amperage unit or getting a marine 3 stage regulator because I am going thru belts very quickly when my electrical usage is high.

With the A/C on I would have very little amperage left to recharge my batteries and run what I need to run while running down the road.

And example, When my batteries are fully charged, driving at speed, if Wifey turns on the microwave, the battery voltage will drop to 13.5VDC or lower.

This last trip, (two weeks) I ran the generator 55 hours just to stay comfortable in 112 +/- degree heat, it took both roof A/C units + dash air while driving. Used about 38 gallons of propane.


Ed
94 30' Breakaway #3864
30-BS-6B side entry
New Cummins 5.9L, 375+ HP
Allison 6 speed
Spartan chassis
K9DVC
Tankless water heater
 
Posts: 2177 | Location: Los Gatos, CA | Member Since: 12-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/09
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My rear air runs fine on my Prosine 2000 while the diesel main engine is idling. I haven't done this for any length of time and can't say if it will drag the batts down vs the alternator input. I suppose I think it is worth a try??
Your data on the alternator is very important, thanks. There is a company that makes a 110V generator that you belt on to your main pulley and it pumps out 110V at amperage variable to the rpms.
I may look at that. Or I may refurbish my dash air system.
Thank goodness fall is just around the corner...


1990 Regency 32 Center Aisle Spartan Chassis CTA8.3 Cummins 240HP 4 spd Allison 7.5 Diesel Genset Pac-brake Prosine 2000 Mickey's on the Rear Toyos front
 
Posts: 131 | Location: Brady, The Republic of Texas | Member Since: 01-13-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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