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New floor covering
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/16
Picture of Kirk & Elise
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The metal moldings are just different aluminum (angle and flat) extrusions from Lowes. That was a solution to the problem of the vinyl planks not holding very well to the vertical surfaces of the stairwell. The aluminum was used to cover up the small nails I put along the edges of the vinyl to keep the planks from peeling away. I used a square and hacksaw outside the Barth on the pavement to cut the miters. A sharp file helped fit them closely. I drilled and countersunk the holes and used fillister head SS screws.

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I had also applied the vinyl to the vertical step-up to the carpeted area in front, but when they began to peel away in places (when the day got hot), I tried extra glue (contact cement). When that didn't work, I didn't even consider nailing the edges... I just went to the Amishman who does custom milling and got a nice Cherry board to go all the way across with one piece. I stained it to match more-or-less the color of the vinyl floor.

 photo vinylonverticalsurface_zpsdf2de69c.jpg

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 photo Newentrylook_zps620afeb4.jpg


1989 22' Regal
454
 
Posts: 183 | Location: Northwestern PA | Member Since: 06-14-2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/16
Picture of Kirk & Elise
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While I'm at this, and at the risk of being "long-winded"... as Elise would say...

I had a question from a member concerning the use of patterns to cut the vinyl. This is what I wrote back:

Basically, I mean to use that brown craft paper that comes in a roll, either from a hardware store (Lowes even has it) or like mine - which is a little heavier and came from an art-related sign supply store. Where I would have a space to fill (with the next vinyl plank) that had a tricky radius from the built-in cabinetry as part of the plank, I would lay my craft paper out onto a large cutting surface and trace out a plank.. or portion of the plank.. that I needed. After cutting that out of the paper, I would have a facsimile of the actual dimension of the next piece to go down. Then I would lay the paper piece into the floor space where I wanted to fit a vinyl plank and push the paper up into the crevice along the cabinet using my finger tips. The paper will fold/curl along the 90˚ meeting edge of the floor to cabinet and make a crease. Then I would put this paper piece back onto the cutting board and using my X-acto knife (with narrow point... I think they call them #11 blades), I'd cut along the crease to create a pattern for the vinyl plank. I would always go back and 'fit' the paper pattern before tracing it onto the top of the vinyl piece to make sure I was close. Then once I cut/scored the vinyl and snapped off the waste piece AND BEFORE removing the wax paper backing covering the adhesive, I'd 'dry' fit the vinyl to the space I was trying to fill. Usually some extra trimming was required and if I goofed it up and saw too much gap where I was trying to make the contoured fit nice and tight, I'd simply get another plank out and modify or just adjust my cut from the same paper pattern again until I got it right. I saved the problem vinyl pieces for fitting elsewhere, especially under the sofa where they really don't show. The vinyl is cheap enough that goofs were not excruciatingly expensive... just frustrating in having to try again.

I might be able to add a few photos once I have time to go out and get a piece of vinyl to record the process.

Also, a question concerning carpet:

The carpet I used up front around the driver and passenger seats was sourced from a large carpet store that had lots of remnants. I think I only paid $40 for the piece I needed and I already knew the dimensions from measuring the pieces I took out of the Barth. That goes fairly easily once everything is cut, use the old pieces as patterns. I took the front seats completely out, base and all. Watch out for the bolts that hold the seats in... they are quite a bear to remove. I ended up using an automotive nut breaker to cut the nuts off in order to remove the bolts. I used all new grade 8 hardware for the seats, but be advised that on my passenger side, the bolts needed to be about 1 1/2 inches longer... go figure! Recovering that fiberglass doghouse (two parts) is a bit of work as well, but use the old pieces as a pattern and get smaller length staples for your air stapler. I wish I had taken some pictures of that process.


1989 22' Regal
454
 
Posts: 183 | Location: Northwestern PA | Member Since: 06-14-2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Picture of Keith Hopper
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Thanks. Very helpful.




1988 Regency
38' Gillig
3208 T Cat
 
Posts: 161 | Location: Atlanta, Georgia | Member Since: 03-21-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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